Retail Unwrapped from The Robin Report https://therobinreport.com Retail Unwrapped is a weekly podcast series hosted by our Chief Strategist Shelley E. Kohan. Each week, they share insights and opinions on major topics in the retail and consumer product industries. The shows are a lively conversation on industry-wide issues, trends, and consumer behavior. Fri, 15 Dec 2023 21:40:31 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.2 The Robin Report The Robin Report info@therobinreport.com Retail Unwrapped from The Robin Report https://therobinreport.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/RR_RU_Podcast_CTAArtboard-02-copy.jpg https://therobinreport.com Retail Unwrapped from The Robin Report Retail Unwrapped is a weekly podcast series hosted by our Chief Strategist Shelley E. Kohan. Each week, they share insights and opinions on major topics in the retail and consumer product industries. The shows are a lively conversation on industry-wide issues, trends, and consumer behavior. false All content copyright The Robin Report. Retail Thieves Leave Retailers Holding an Empty Bag https://therobinreport.com/retail-thieves-leave-retailers-holding-an-empty-bag/ Thu, 14 Sep 2023 10:00:52 +0000 https://therobinreport.com/retail-thieves-leave-retailers-holding-an-empty-bag/ 230914 Retail ThievesAfter all the troubles retailers have had to contend with post-pandemic, including supply chain snafus, store staff gone MIA, rising interest rates, and inflation hitting 40-year highs that cut shoppers’ ability to spend, there’s another challenge to contend with organized […]]]> 230914 Retail Thieves
After all the troubles retailers have had to contend with post-pandemic, including supply chain snafus, store staff gone MIA, rising interest rates, and inflation hitting 40-year highs that cut shoppers’ ability to spend, there’s another challenge to contend with organized retail crime (ORC).
Retail theft is no longer a nuisance where a watchful store employee can discourage a shoplifter. It’s become organized and increasingly violent with smash-and-grab mobs descending on stores to loot and pillage in near 9th-century Viking style, without the swords or helmets, but still with plenty of fearsome face masks and black hoodies. These marauders are armed with pepper spray and have fleets of getaway cars idling curbside to speed them away.

Menacing Marauders

Retail theft is no longer a nuisance where a watchful store employee can discourage a shoplifter. It’s become organized and increasingly violent with smash-and-grab mobs descending on stores to loot and pillage in near 9th-century Viking style, without the swords or helmets, but still with plenty of fearsome face masks and black hoodies. These marauders are armed with pepper spray and have fleets of getaway cars idling curbside to speed them away.

Under Attack

Recent high-profile attacks include a gang that rampaged Macy’s in the Westfield Fashion Square mall in Sherman Oaks, CA where pepper spray was used to fend off a security guard. Pepper spray and hammers were the weapons of choice in a Pasadena, CA jewelry store robbery where almost all its merchandise was lifted, totaling some $500,000 worth. Luxury retailers have become favored targets because thieves can make off with more valuable loot. An Yves Saint Laurent store in Caruso’s Americana at Brand lifestyle center was hit at dinnertime. And a few days later, a Nordstrom store in the Westfield Topanga Mall in Woodland Hills was invaded with the mayhem caught on camera. All told thieves made off with nearly half a million dollars of loot in these two robberies. “These are not victimless crimes, especially in the case where Angelenos were attacked through force of fear, as they did their jobs or ran errands,” said Los Angeles Mayor Karen Bass as she announced the formation of a 22-person strong investigative task force to address the growing problem across the city. But it’s not just a Los Angeles or California problem. Major cities nationwide are seeing a rise in organized retail crime with New York, Houston, Miami, Chicago, Seattle, Atlanta and Dallas among the top ten cities most affected, according to the National Retail Federation in a report co-sponsored by the Loss Prevention Research Council. The LPRC counts Walmart, Target, Gap, CVS, and Home Depot as founding members.

Retail Shrink Is Super-Sized Problem

The NRF estimates retail losses from theft, including ORC, will total some $100 billion this year, up from $90.8 billion in 2020, with some 70 percent of the retailers surveyed reporting the threat of ORC has grown over the past five years. A total of 63 retailers with a median sales volume of $2.5 billion were surveyed. The losses are starting to show up on retailers’ balance sheets. Kohl’s, Dollar Tree, Home Depot, Ulta and Academy Sports & Outdoors all noted that theft is hurting business and cutting into margins. Dick’s Sporting Goods experienced a 23 percent drop in profitability in its most recent quarter partly due to a rapid rise in theft. Target said shrink will cut profitability by more than $500 million this year and Walmart warned it could lead to higher prices for customers and possible store closures. Nordstrom CEO Erik Nordstrom reported in his August earnings call that losses from theft are at historic highs, adding that it is “impacting customer foot traffic in our stores and our ability to operate successfully.” Despite the industry-wide monetary losses, retailers are most concerned about the violence associated with ORC. Over 80 percent of retailers surveyed reported criminals are more aggressive and violent now than they were a year ago, including 36 percent who said they were “much more” violent.

Co-Conspirators

Retailers point to the criminal justice system as contributing to the problem. Over 70 percent reported an increase in ORC crime when felony thresholds are lifted, as they have been in California where a thief can make off with up to $950 in merchandise in a single incident before being charged with a felony. And the reduction or elimination of cash bail has further emboldened offenders, according to 55 percent of retailers surveyed. But the criminal justice system can’t take all the blame. LPRC’s research scientist Cory Lowe, with a PhD in criminology, said that the police can’t act on retail crimes they know nothing about. He cited his firm’s latest “ORC Across the States 2022” survey that found about half of retail crimes go unreported. Retailers don’t bother reporting theft crimes to police primarily because they expect inaction or lack of follow-up (81 percent), and 63 percent believe prosecutors won’t prosecute such crimes. But gang-related ORC is a different animal entirely. “Violence and organized retail crime problems are probably the greatest concerns among retailers right now,” Lowe shared with Investor’s Business Daily. And it’s a growing concern among consumers too.

Stop Thief!

Shoppers are increasingly concerned about rampant shoplifting and store looting in their communities. A survey conducted by NRF among n=5,000 consumers found 53 percent see an increase in retail crime in their neighborhoods, with the incidence growing to nearly 60 percent for urban dwellers. Their greatest worry is the threat from gang-related shoplifting incidents (64 percent), which rises to 75 percent among consumers who live in urban communities. Consumers are not blind to the fact that rising retail theft will translate into higher prices (79 percent), and they share similar concerns as retailers about law enforcement and prosecutors being too lenient on retail criminals (51 percent).

Next Steps

The NRF has called on Congress to pass the Combating Organized Retail Crime Act which would devote more resources to fighting ORC and foster greater coordination among federal, state, and local law enforcement agencies to address it. Bi-partisan bills are now floating in the House and Senate and the NRF has launched a national grassroots campaign in support of the Act. It would go along with the INFORM for Consumers Act, passed last year, that requires online marketplaces, like eBay and Amazon, to collect, verify and disclose information from third-party sellers that conduct 200 transactions totaling $5,000 in revenues per year. Such marketplaces are a favored way to unload stolen merchandise. David Johnston, NRF’s vice president of asset protection and retail operations, told Fox Business, “Online marketplaces have always been viewed as an avenue to anonymity and uncertainty as to who is actually selling the merchandise. Through the verification and validation required from the INFORM Act, it’s now going to remove that veil, not only for those that are investigating suspected items but also for consumers.” However, Johnston acknowledged the INFORM Act and the proposed Combating Organized Retail Crime Act are still baby steps to stopping ORC. “It’s too early to tell how far the needle will move.”

Prevention Better Than the Cure

So far, retail criminals have stayed one or many steps ahead of retailers, but retailers are working to catch up. More retailers are turning to technology enhanced with AI capability to help their stores be less appealing targets. Tech advances include video-surveillance systems, license-plate and vehicle identification systems, autonomous security robots, RFID tags, blockchain for luxury goods and facial recognition cameras – though how well they work to identify masked faces is questionable. And then the widespread use of facial recognition brings up a whole new set of problems surrounding privacy concerns. AI can be layered onto existing systems to pinpoint suspicious behavior. “The first thing we look at is, can we detect these people and identify them before there are victims?” Dr. Read Hayes, director of the LPRD, said to CNBC. Since ORC gangs do advanced recognizance before committing their crimes, AI and facial recognition could help identify potential suspects before the act. Axis Communications has developed AI-assisted cameras that can analyze vehicle and individual activities outside the store to detect suspicious activity that can turn on strobe lights and a loud warning over a speaker. The goal of having theft-prevention technology and security personnel front and center in the store is to make that location a less attractive target. “Thieves want the easiest job possible,” said technology reporter Dan Berhiaume of Chain Store Age. “If your store has some basic security protocols, they move on to a store that hasn’t been hardened.”

Working Together

In a recent Retail Unwrapped podcast, Robin Lewis and Shelley Kohan met with George Shaw, founder, and CEO of Pathr.ai, to address the issue of rising retail crime. Observing simple measures like putting hot theft items under lock and key, Shaw said such efforts make “loss prevention become sales prevention” because shoppers find it not worth the time or effort to hunt down a salesclerk to unlock the display. His company offers AI technology that can distinguish good shoppers from bad ones, so a previously locked case will automatically open for a shopper who doesn’t exhibit signs of being a shoplifter. He calls this and other AI-powered technology “spatial intelligence” that can work for retailers in loss prevention and asset management. Fighting retail crime, organized or otherwise, is building bridges between unlikely partners, like fierce competitors Target and Walmart collaborating in the LPRD, and advanced technologists like Shaw and other scientists working with old-fashioned merchants to make their stores safe and secure. “It takes a village to protect retailers’ assets,” said Kohan, and now local, state and the federal governments need to step up too to fight retail crime that is hurting retailers, the lifeblood of the American economy, and is of great concern of citizens who simply want to be safe and secure going about their everyday business, including when they shop.
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The New Retail Space Race https://therobinreport.com/the-new-retail-space-race/ Wed, 13 Sep 2023 10:00:58 +0000 https://therobinreport.com/the-new-retail-space-race/ david solce cj RcA 5Hw0 unsplashAll you contrarians unite: Store-based retail is very much alive — even on fire. In fact, according to real estate services firm CBRE, the rate of available retail real estate fell to 4.8 percent in the second quarter, the lowest level […]]]> david solce cj RcA 5Hw0 unsplash

All you contrarians unite: Store-based retail is very much alive — even on fire. In fact, according to real estate services firm CBRE, the rate of available retail real estate fell to 4.8 percent in the second quarter, the lowest level in 18 years. And as store-based retailing evolves to become less transactional, more experiential, with higher efficiency, and more environmentally sustainable, other forces are also at play in reshaping the retail landscape.

Across all retail categories, it has become clear that small is the new big. Large multiunit retailers as well as startups are building smaller stores. The JLL report states that smaller spaces (under 5,000 square feet) have seen the highest demand. 

Space’s Down, Rent’s Up

Real-estate investment trust Macerich notched its strongest leasing volume since the 2008/09 financial crisis. Leasing so far this year is exceeding last year’s pace. But there’s a catch:  Kimco, another major retail lessor increased rents by more than 30 percent last quarter from backfilling spaces vacated by Bed Bath & Beyond. They have been inundated with calls from discount retailers, grocers, home goods stores, bookstores, and apparel companies interested in the bankrupt retailer’s former real estate.

But it is definitely not a one-size-fits-all space race. At the low end, enclosed malls are in crisis as department stores’ contracts expire and other tenants move to open-air locations. According to data provider MSCI Real Assets, two-thirds of the nearly $1 billion of distressed retail property sales so far in 2023 involve mall properties. So, while the upper-end A, A- and B+ malls are raising rents because of high demand, many of the lower-end malls are in a death spiral.

Suburbanization Redux

And there’s another thread to the real estate picture. It has become embedded in recent retail legend that suburban shopping center owners have benefited from the rise of remote work. Consumers visit local grocery stores and other shops more often during the work week when it’s convenient to step out of the house for a quick errand.

Moreover, the 72 million+ millennials have reached the life stage of having families and buying their first homes. As a result, we are witnessing a suburbanization redux, echoing the post-World War II march of their grandparents who put the suburbs on the map. In response, many retailers and even fast-casual restaurants have shifted locations from urban business districts to the suburbs, a movement that has been good for the burbs but has exacerbated vacancy issues in many of our cities’ central business districts.

Shrinking Footprints

Class A malls showed positive absorption of 0.2 million square-feet in the second quarter according to JLL’s “United States Retail Outlook Q2 2023” report, and availability within non-mall, multi-tenant retail centers dropped to 7.5 percent in June. This is a precipitous drop from 2020 when the pandemic caused vacancies to spike to double digits. And it appears that one of the biggest winners today in retail real estate is the open-air center whose demand tripled in the second quarter.

Small for All

Across all retail categories, it has become clear that small is the new big. Large multiunit retailers as well as startups are building smaller stores. The JLL report states that smaller spaces (under 5,000 square feet) have seen the highest demand.

Many direct-to-consumer (DTC) digitally native brands that are opening physical stores are doing so in spaces that are significantly smaller than the chain stores of the past. Similarly, “small-in-the-mall” expansion is occurring among quick-service restaurants.

Macy’s just announced the opening of four more of its small footprint off-mall stores by fall 2023. Ranging between 30,000- and 50,000 square feet in size, they are one-fifth the size of the typical Macy’s mall anchor. And in a curious but telling side note, unlike the Market by Macy’s nameplate given to the initial prototype locations, the new foursome will bear only the Macy’s moniker. My read is that rather than attempting to support the boutique Market by Macy’s sub-brand, they are simply becoming more flexible with their store sizes, as Target has.  

Making Retail Work in a Channel-Free World

Over the course of most of the 20th century, retail has been evolutionary (the underlying theme of my book Retail Schmetail). In the 21st century, it has been more disruptive and revolutionary. Blame the internet, Amazon, supply chain pain, the pandemic, mall-fall, or changing consumer behavior.  But one thing has not changed: Retail still is all about the goods, and people who want them, full stop.

One of the most daunting pain points between wanting and getting goods has been retail logistics, something that became magnified and exacerbated throughout the pandemic. The super retailers, Walmart, Target, Costco, Amazon, and the like devoted hundreds of millions on top of their already huge investments during this period. This has resulted in a well-oiled infrastructure to send a lot of stuff to zillions of people, fast.

However, for most other retailers further down the food chain, less has changed. From specialty chains to independent retailers, transforming the physical retail ecosystem to meet today’s customer expectations has been a work in progress, at best. But that is changing, and Fillogic is part of that change.

Holistic Approach to Middle- and Last-Mile Logistics

I recently spoke with William Thayer, the CEO and founder of Fillogic. Fillogic collaborates with retailers, brands, real estate owners, and logistics providers to take the mystery out of middle-mile and final-mile logistics. It gets people their stuff by reducing the distance to the end consumer, cutting transport emissions, and cutting the amount of warehouse space, even the very cost of that space.

How? Before you think robots (as I did) came to the rescue, think again. Fillogic is creating an elaborate hub network of satellite facilities (think empty retail spaces) across the country. Combining these facilities with a proprietary algorithm creates complete transparency around where the goods are at every point of their journey. Additionally, by sidestepping the major carriers, they can cut transportation costs, and at the same time reduce transport emissions by 20 percent.

Fillogic’s approach is uniquely holistic. It is not only keeping real-time tabs on the products in motion but creating new efficiencies in the middle mile. Fillogic has partnered with the biggest retail real estate and mall owners including Simon Property Group, Brookfield Properties, Taubman Properties, and Macerich. They optimize the mall owners’ excess space while providing their retail tenants with more fulfillment/delivery options, inbound optimization, supply chain visibility, and reverse logistics options to help them meet customer demands. It’s a clean machine, closer to home.

Empty Spaces

In 21st century retail the one constant is change. What doesn’t change, however, is linking buyers with sellers, people with goods. And you still need physical spaces as marketplaces. Undoubtedly as disruption continues, new players like Fillogic will emerge to bring value to underutilized physical assets while meeting the ever-increasing demands of both the consumer and the marketplace. The main takeaway? It’s going to take creativity and ingenuity to fill the empty spaces in places that have become irrelevant, and it’s going to take financial savvy and finesse to keep up with higher costs and less attractive leases.

 

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Going Local Requires More than a Strategy https://therobinreport.com/going-local-requires-more-than-a-strategy/ Wed, 06 Sep 2023 10:00:39 +0000 https://therobinreport.com/going-local-requires-more-than-a-strategy/ 230906 Going LocalAs retail chains have gotten ever larger – stretching into the hundreds, thousands and even tens of thousands of units – management at the country’s largest players has always struggled with how to cater to local tastes and preferences. Some […]]]> 230906 Going Local
As retail chains have gotten ever larger – stretching into the hundreds, thousands and even tens of thousands of units – management at the country’s largest players has always struggled with how to cater to local tastes and preferences. Some national chains have taken the McDonald’s approach: the same thing every time in every place. It’s worked for Walmart, Target, and others like Costco. Familiarity breeds trust.
Retailers use the word “curate” with great abandon to describe their localization efforts. The success of local market curation is debatable. To pull it off requires the fusion of art (understanding customers’ needs and preferences) and science (a lot of tech applications and tools that inform the right curation for the right customer cohorts).
But over the course of retailing history, some companies have chosen to try to localize their assortments to fit specific marketplaces. Of course, that goes for the obvious of not putting winter clothing in Phoenix or sundresses in February in Detroit. But less obvious have been the strategies employed at one time at retailers like JCPenney and the late, lamented Bed Bath & Beyond. Both eventually got away from localizing their stores for a variety of reasons and generally paid the price. Each certainly had more than their fair share of additional maladies dragging their businesses down besides localization.

By the Book

Now Barnes & Noble has jumped on the local train with initial success as it tries to come back from its near-death experience. Under new CEO James Daunt the book chain – which crashed and nearly drowned in the wake of the Amazon onslaught of the category – has resurrected itself. Daunt put his localized merchandising strategy in place: store managers decide which titles are featured at the front of the store, have some leeway on ordering product specifically for their trading area and arrange the shelves in ways that best suit their customers. This was Daunt’s practice at his own small chain in England and also when private equity owners brought him to run Waterstones, the U.K. equivalent of B&N. He then was asked to repeat the process on this side of the Atlantic and so far, the results seem to be paying off. After years of going in reverse, closing stores, and losing share, B&N is now opening new stores and its business is improving. Barnes & Noble has certainly been the beneficiary of the swing back to physical shopping although Amazon is probably not shaking in its bits and bytes. But for right now, it’s the best case study we have for why and how localizing can work.

JCP & BBB

Go back a few years – OK, a few decades—and two other national chains were the poster children of localizing. JCPenney historically always gave its local and regional managers great autonomy for deciding what to put into their stores…and where to put it. Part of this was apparel-based but it also extended to home where different colors and patterns sold better in different parts of the country. And for a long time, it served the company well. As Bed Bath & Beyond began to expand from its small base in the Northeast to a national footprint it operated along a similar path. Local managers did much of the ordering for their stores and vendors were required to ship those individual orders to each store, often in onesies or twosies. Suppliers didn’t necessarily like the extra cost involved in fulfilling these mini orders, but as long as they kept coming in even when  BBB reached over 1,000 locations, they put up with it. What happened with both these stores? The biggest reason they failed was logistics. Bed Bath did not have distribution centers and eventually, as ecommerce and scale demanded some centralization; local managers began to have less and less say about their store assortments. New management at both retail chains, perhaps with their eye more on spreadsheets than local buying idiosyncrasies, looked to standardize skus and floor plans. Eventually both retail brands went to total nationalized buying and merchandising and that was the end of localization. We pretty much know how both these stories ended.

My Macy’s…Maybe

Even with the practical advantage of having standard assortments, national advertising, and online inventories, some retailers have nonetheless been intrigued by trying to individualize their stores. My Macy’s was a bold initiative put in place by former CEO Terry Lundgren after he engineered the merger of the company with May Co. and hung the Macy’s sign on every former nameplate across the country. The idea was to be able to replicate the individual assortments that Jordan Marsh Florida, Marshall Field and Macy’s California once had that they were quite successful with. While Lundgren and his successor Jeff Gennette talked about this initiative all the time, it’s unclear how much shoppers ever really noticed it in person. Yes, the shorts and beach towels stayed out all year in Florida and mufflers and flannel remained in Minnesota well into the spring, but it was hard to see much other evidence of how My Macy’s related to local markets…even though the program seems to technically still be in place.

Retail Still Vocal on Local

Despite all the attempts at localization that haven’t worked – many due to circumstances having nothing to do with the concept itself – it remains an intriguing idea for all kinds of retailers. Foot Locker says it is working to make its assortments better fit local buying tastes as part of its “Lace Up” strategy to fix its sagging sales. Fast-fashion’s Zara is reported to be giving its local store managers more authority over their shop’s inventory, displays and even designs, using its proprietary data system to track regional buyer patterns. Macy’s, still trying to find the right hook for all of this, is using its Market by Macy’s local strip center stores – the newest of which will simply go by the Macy’s name – to address preferences in individual trading areas. These retailers use the word “curate” with great enthusiasm to describe their localization efforts. The success of local market curation is debatable. To pull it off requires the fusion of art (understanding customers’ needs and preferences) and science (a lot of tech applications and tools that inform the right curation for the right customer cohorts). What’s worth remembering is that like much in retailing – in business for that matter – nothing is really all that new. Tailoring assortments to local preferences goes back to the very first stores. Those general store owners knew their customers by name and knew what they wanted – and ordered it on demand). Today, the challenge of scaling localization has failed for many. Shop local has been a mantra of independent specialty retailers forever. Big retailers continue to try to make it work nationally. The proof will be walking that local talk and delivering the right stuff to the right people at the right time.
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Retailers: Get Ready for the Weather to Turn https://therobinreport.com/retailers-get-ready-for-the-weather-to-turn/ Tue, 29 Aug 2023 10:00:33 +0000 https://therobinreport.com/retailers-get-ready-for-the-weather-to-turn/ 230829 Retailers Weather to TurnFor some 300 years, people have relied upon low-tech barometers to predict weather changes measured by the air pressure. When air pressure is high, it signals clear skies and fair weather. When it’s low, storms are in the forecast, and […]]]> 230829 Retailers Weather to Turn
For some 300 years, people have relied upon low-tech barometers to predict weather changes measured by the air pressure. When air pressure is high, it signals clear skies and fair weather. When it’s low, storms are in the forecast, and when it drops really low, a hurricane is coming.
Americans are now under $1 trillion in credit card debt after relying on their cards to pay for basic month-to-month purchases. Now the average credit card balance is about $6,000 and more than half of credit card holders worry they can’t pay off their debt.

Economic Bellwethers

Unfortunately, many of us don’t pay attention to the many economic barometers we have in place that predict our future.  For example, some wait until after the fact to learn that our economy is taking a nose-dive following two consecutive quarters of negative GDP. And they don’t even prepare for the metaphorical economic hurricane about to hit us. The emerging signs of an economic maelstrom are forming that could be as bad or worse than the 2007-2009 Great Recession – if anyone is willing to notice. In May, Nationwide released its 2023 Economic Impact report based on a survey among n=2,000 adults and found over two-thirds of Americans (68 percent) expect a recession to hit within the next six months. Among those who see a recession imminent, nearly 80 percent expect it to be “severe,” with 33 percent expecting it to be as bad and 29 percent expecting it to be worse as the last one. Overall, 57 percent are adjusting their finances to get ready for it to hit.

Retail: Half-Full vs. Half-Empty

Full disclosure: I’ve been on the glass-half-empty side of the economic debate for some time. It was plain to me that the seven percent growth retail enjoyed last year was primarily attributable to inflation since the retail data reported by the Census Bureau is in current dollars, not constant dollars adjusted for inflation. Nonetheless, the National Retail Federation remained in the glass-half-full camp despite holiday 2022 retail spending falling short (5.3 percent) of its holiday forecast between six to eight percent. Then in March, it released its sunny forecast for 2023, predicting retail would advance between four and six percent year-over-year. ”While we expect growth to moderate in the year ahead, it will remain positive as retail sales stabilize to more historical levels, “ stated NRF president and CEO Matthew Shay. NRF remained positive through July, even teasing that it saw signs of happy days ahead. “The year is half over and the economy is still moving in the right direction. While its rhythm, tone and pattern have slowed, it has not stalled, and recently revised data shows underlying strength that seems to be rolling forward,” reported NRF chief economist Jack Kleinenz in the July Monthly Economic Review.

About Face

Then in early August, the economic ball abruptly rolled back when NRF announced: “Consumer spending is slowing. There are ongoing economic challenges and questions, and the pace of consumer spending growth is becoming incrementally slower,” Kleinheiz reported, adding, “The current framework clearly increases the chance of a slower economy,” in reference to the Federal Reserve’s actions to control inflation. Only days after this announcement, the Census Bureau released its advanced monthly sales report for July, showing that retail sales through the first seven months of the year advanced only 1.1 percent year-over-year, excluding motor vehicles, gasoline stations and restaurants. At the same time, inflation was running at 3.2 percent. You do the math. Despite reassurances that consumers are “still spending,” Kleinhenz said they have been “adjusting how much they buy.” He also remarked that consumers’ “stockpile of savings accumulated during the pandemic is dwindling,” curtailing their spending power. Adding insult to injury, Americans are now under $1 trillion in credit card debt after relying on their cards to pay for basic month-to-month purchases. Now the average credit card balance is about $6,000 and more than half of credit card holders worry they can’t pay off their debt. Rising interest rates are discouraging consumers from continuing to turn to their plastic. On a seasonally adjusted basis at annual rates, the Bureau of Economic Analysis revealed that personal nonmortgage interest payments are 48 percent higher in the second quarter of 2023 compared to the same quarter last year, or $462.6 billion now vs. $313.1 billion then. Conversely, Americans are squirreling away as much as they can in savings, with the second quarter savings rate as a percentage of disposable income up to 4.4 percent this second quarter from 3.2 percent last year. They know which way the wind is blowing and are hunkering down for what’s ahead.

Another Shoe Drops

Many retailers are already experiencing consumers pulling back. In its most recent reporting, Macy’s saw an 8 percent decline in net sales over last year, and VF revenues dropped 8 percent, with Vans and Dickies off 22 percent and 20 percent respectively. Kohl’s experienced a 4.8 percent decrease and comparable sales were down 5 percent. Home Depot was off 2 percent and did better than Lowe’s, down 8.9 percent. Williams-Sonoma revenues dropped 11.9 percent year-over-year. Gap Inc. declined 8 percent, with Gap brand dropping 14 percent and Banana Republic down 11 percent. Levi’s revenues fell 9 percent overall but tanked 22 percent in the Americas. Even the luxury sector isn’t immune. Nordstrom revenues, including Nordstrom Rack, dropped 8 percent with its flagship Nordstrom down 10 percent. Capri Holdings, parent of Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo and soon to be acquired by Tapestry, came off its most recent quarter with revenues down 9.6 percent. Ralph Lauren global was basically flat in the latest quarter, but sales in North America dropped 10 percent. And the international luxury leaders, LVMH, Kering, Richemont, Prada and Burberry, most recently reported revenues in the Americas flagged too. Our own Warren Shoulberg offers a simple guide to determine which way the economic winds are blowing: the Wal/Get Gauge. “When Walmart is doing well, the economy is in trouble and things are not so great. When Target is doing well, the economy is improving and things are looking pretty good,” he explains. In their most recent reporting, Walmart revenues rose 5.7 percent and Target’s comparable sales were down 5.4 percent.

Back-To-School Indicators

The trend in back-to-school shopping typically provides a bellwether of what’s ahead for holiday retail. In July, the NRF proclaimed that back-to-school shopping would be one for the record books, reaching $41.5 billion from $26 billion in pre-pandemic 2019 and rising from $697 per household to $890 this year, not adjusted for inflation. But then the basket of typical school supplies will cost 28 percent more for American families this year than last, according to a global study by World Remit. So that accounts for all of NRF’s expected rise in spending. Deloitte takes a dimmer view, based on a survey of 1,200 Americans with children aged 5 to 18 years. Calling this a year for economizing, it expects a 10 percent cut in spending per student, with parents leaning into essential school supplies, with year-over-year spending up 20 percent, but cut back on both clothing and accessories, down 14 percent, and tech products, down 13 percent. About half of parents who will spend less cite reduced disposable income as impacting their BTS plans. Back-to-school shoppers are stressed by financial fatigue, Deloitte reports. “The entire shopping journey is about minimizing costs this year. Parents are shopping earlier and they’re choosing to pay with cash.” Nearly one-third of parents said their household is in a worse financial situation than last year, with lower-income households (45 percent) feeling the greatest pinch. Across the board, 51 percent expect the economy to weaken over the next six months, a view shared by 46 percent of higher-income households. In assessing the BTS shopping season and what it could mean for holiday, Nikki Baird, vice president of strategy at Aptos said, “This back-to-school season is shaping up to be one where consumers overall spend more but end up buying less. And that could easily lead to a similar impact on holiday spending.”

End of the Line

Ever since pandemic restrictions eased, consumers have answered retailers’ rallying cry to keep shopping, and they didn’t miss a beat early on even after inflation set in, thanks to the government’s Covid relief payouts. But they are rapidly reaching the end of the credit and savings rope, and retailers should prepare for a sharp pullback in spending. Earlier this year, S&P Global Marketing Intelligence predicted retail sales would grow only 0.5 percent in 2023 or a 0.1 percent decline after accounting for inflation. That forecast was delayed by a surprisingly strong first half of the year, with NRF reporting 4 percent growth, excluding automobile dealers, gasoline stations and restaurants. But their retail spending slowed to 1.6 percent in the second quarter, and a weak second half of 2023 is almost assured. “Persistently high inflation and weakening consumer demand are eating into U.S. retail sales expectations this year,” S&P reported. “This year’s retail sales will help determine whether the U.S. enters a recession as consumer spending accounts for nearly 70 percent of U.S. GDP.” And Phil Orlando, chief equity strategist at Federated Hermes added, “If the consumer is pulling in their horns, then to a significant degree that is going to contribute to slower economic growth and maybe recessionary growth.”

End Notes

The good news – if there’s any to be had – is that retailers have a playbook for handling recessions, unlike the pandemic that nobody saw coming. And the pandemic had an unexpected upside. It forced retailers to flex slackened corporate muscle and develop new skills, like building more resilient supply chains and getting closer to local store operations. And on the human side, with many retailers already running short-staffed, they won’t have to implement major layoffs that undermine the spirit and loyalty of the survivors. Retailers are resilient; they have to be. They’ll need that skill to manage through the next hit to the system: the coming recession.
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The Latest Homeless Crisis: The Missing $7 Billion in Retail Sales https://therobinreport.com/the-missing-7-billion-retail-sales/ Thu, 27 Jul 2023 08:00:15 +0000 https://therobinreport.com/the-missing-7-billion-retail-sales/ Missing Retail SalesAs recently as just a few years ago, Bed Bath & Beyond did over $5 billion in annual retail sales. Tuesday Morning was doing close to $700 million a year before it closed. Christmas Tree Shops, privately owned before it […]]]> Missing Retail Sales

As recently as just a few years ago, Bed Bath & Beyond did over $5 billion in annual retail sales. Tuesday Morning was doing close to $700 million a year before it closed. Christmas Tree Shops, privately owned before it also announced its closing, had a yearly estimated revenue of about the same level, $700 million. Throw in the home furnishings sales of a few other chains that have gone belly-up like David’s Bridal, Party City and Sears Hometown and you can add in another $100 or $200 million in sales, easy.

It’s the suppliers who are in the biggest mess. Big vendors to BBB might have done $100 million – some even more – a year with that single account.

Put it all together and that’s close to $7 billion in annual home furnishings revenue generated by stores that have been liquidated – or are in the process of being liquidated. And most of it has disappeared forever.

Because of more careful monitoring of accounts receivable throughout the ordering process, the money due to creditors from these bankruptcies rarely stretched into seven figures, much less eight. So, vendors did not get stung as badly as they had historically been tagged by previous retail bankruptcies.

But the bigger problem is the loss of annual top-line business with the closing of all these retail chains. Using the good old keystone equation of wholesale being about half of retail – an imprecise measurement to be sure but the best we’ve got – home furnishings vendors are looking at a shortfall of at least $3.5 billion in yearly sales.

And history would suggest that most of it will evaporate, never to be seen again.

The Law of Migrating Retail Sales

Consumer purchasing patterns are a funny thing. As often as people say they plan their buying and keep tight budgets on what they will spend, it rarely works out that way. The fact of the matter is that retailers are really good at driving business through advertising, sales, promotions, coupons and just being in plain sight as people drive to work or do errands. That big bad Bed Bath & Beyond coupon that arrived like clockwork every few weeks in American mailboxes was an amazing vehicle to get people to go to their local store and spend, often far more than they ever planned. BBB didn’t get to be so successful — $11 billion in annual sales at its peak in the 2010s – by sitting around and waiting for customers to show up.

Without all this promotional and marketing activity so much of this business simply disappears. Without that coupon, that one-day sale, that act-before-midnight-tonight blaring TV commercial, shopping loses its place as top of mind, replaced by Netflix, Uber Eats and a day at the beach.

This is especially true when it comes to home furnishings. Unlike absolutely necessary purchases like food and drugs or more aspirational buying for things such as new clothing and shoes, very few people really need a new set of towels, more cookware or dishes…or even bigger ticket items like rugs, furniture and mattresses. We may have a need to replace some of these – and most sales for home furnishings these days are replacement sales – but we can certainly wait a week, a month or even longer to do that. The fact that so few home furnishings brands drive sales themselves through advertising or marketing only adds to the perception that since those former behemoth retail brands are no longer promoting, it feels like nobody is promoting.

Ephemeral Retail

And if it seems like nobody is promoting, nobody is going to be selling. So, with Bed Bath or Tuesday Morning or the others no longer showing up on social media, email feeds or with coupons and circulars in mailboxes, that business simply isn’t happening anywhere else. This is not some theory, either. When Linens’n Things – BBB’s one-time closest competitor – went out of business in 2008 it was doing just shy of $3 billion a year in sales. But how much of that $3 billion migrated back to competitors like Bed Bath, Macy’s, Kohl’s, Target, TJX and that emerging thing called the internet? Looking at the top-line growth of those brands from that era and you’ll see small incremental gains but nothing like a cumulative $3 billion. If it was half of that, it was a lot.

This is not an isolated example. When JCPenney lost 25 percent of its revenues in just the first 12 months of the ill-fated Ron Johnson era, one would think a big chunk of that $4.3 billion in business would have gone across the highway to its closest competitor, Kohl’s. Nothing of the sort happened. Some of that revenue did trickle to Kohl’s, for sure, and some went to the other end of the mall to Macy’s but most of it just went up in a giant puff of smoke.

When Bon-Ton closed all of its 200 stores in 2018, other department stores – often in the same shopping center appealing to the same demographic – didn’t see much of a spike in their business. And the saddest example of business simply evaporating? It’s Sears of course, which at its peak had annual sales of over $16 billion. Yes, that includes Kmart, but even taking that out of the equation, that’s a lot of revenue from power tools, car batteries and washing machines. As it was disintegrating over the past two decades, some of that business went to competitors like Home Depot and Lowe’s and some to specialty chains like Auto Zone and Tractor Supply Co. But a lot of it simply went away.

Vexed Vendors

So, back to the present and this latest wave of retail elimination. It’s not like shoppers will have any shortage of places to buy stuff. Between strong national chains, ecommerce and direct-to-consumer sellers, there remain plenty of choices and nobody is going to be denied new percale sheets.

It’s the suppliers who are in the biggest mess. Big vendors to BBB might have done $100 million – some even more – a year with that single account. Even with Overstock’s takeover of the brand, it is not going to absorb anywhere near that amount of business. For suppliers of soft home, kitchenware, housewares, and the thousands of products that BBB crammed into its stores – and similar assortments at Tuesday Morning and Christmas Tree – there is simply no place to go to replace that amount of business.

Since most of these products are made offshore, we’re not talking about American factories closing and workers being laid off. There are unintended consequences to the supply chain ecosystem. The residual side effects will be widespread: Connect the dots and workers at ports handling less cargo, truckers hauling fewer loads to stores, and delivery services bringing online packages to homes.

The suppliers themselves will have to get smaller, leaner, and more aggressive — getting new business wherever they can. Many are likely to go out of business since their margins and cash reserves were not that great, to begin with.

That $7 billion decline in retail business – OK, call it $4 billion after some of it is absorbed by other retailers – only tells part of the story of 2023. The second wave will be all the home product suppliers who won’t make it through the year. America most certainly has a homeless crisis of graver consequences for our society overall, but for the home furnishings business, its latest crisis is just beginning.

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They Paved Paradise and Put Up a Retail Parking Lot https://therobinreport.com/they-paved-paradise-and-put-up-a-retail-parking-lot/ Mon, 24 Jul 2023 10:00:04 +0000 https://therobinreport.com/they-paved-paradise-and-put-up-a-retail-parking-lot/ Wierson LessParkingThis might come as a surprise to New Yorkers who are constantly on the prowl for a choice parking spot – an aspect of Big Apple life that, at times, can even turn bloody and violent – but the truth […]]]> Wierson LessParking

This might come as a surprise to New Yorkers who are constantly on the prowl for a choice parking spot – an aspect of Big Apple life that, at times, can even turn bloody and violent – but the truth of the matter is that for vast swathes of the country, there is simply too much parking.

Vacant Space

Although some of us might cringe at the idea of trying to find a parking spot at the supermarket the day before Thanksgiving, at Best Buy on Black Friday, or at the mall on Christmas Eve Day, these instances are the exception rather than the rule. Aside from a few of these special outlier occasions each year, the truth is that most parking spots at major urban, suburban, and ex-urban retail locations are grossly underutilized. At the outer rim of many parking lots sit paved-over spots that rarely see any action – and Big Box retailers are beginning to take notice and think, literally, out of the box, about how to better use this idle real estate.

What is behind this glut of parking availability traces back to a mosaic of factors, but the “too much unused parking space” phenomenon is not unique to retail. An untold number of unused parking spots sit idle at residential complexes across the country and in major cities, many downtown garages sit nearly empty. Not only is all this needlessly paved-over land bad for the environment (asphalt traps heats and releases harmful pollutants into the environment), but it can also present a security threat (the notion of an “empty parking garage at night” almost immediately conjures up the idea of imminent danger); moreover, remote sections of parking lots seem to be among criminals’ favorite places for buying and selling contraband.

Car Culture

The surfeit of parking spots stems from our country’s nearly 100-year love affair with the automobile which translated, mainly in the 1950s, 60s and 70s, into local municipalities whipping up an array of arcane zoning codes that mandated minimum parking requirements for many types of real estate projects – all of which came at a time during the emergence and growth in popularity of the neighborhood mall and the first Big Box retail complexes.

Of course, beginning in the late 1990s, with the rise of ecommerce, fewer and fewer people needed to venture out to retail establishments as often as they had to in the past. Fast-forwarding to the 2020s, the rise in popularity of ride-sharing services like Uber and Lyft only contributed to the same trend. But perhaps the biggest vector of change has been the move to remote work, which really accelerated during the pandemic. According to Donald Shoup, an urban planner at the University of California, Los Angeles who is a specialist in parking research (yes, such a field does exist!), there are as many as 2 billion parking spaces in the U.S. or seven spots for every registered vehicle. (Although why someone still inevitably parks right next to me each and every time I venture out in my vintage 1988 Rubinrot Mercedes 560SL coupe even though I purposely search for the most remote and inconvenient location possible on the lot so no one inadvertently swings their door into mine is still one of life’s great unsolved mysteries, but I digress…)

Big Lots

Fortunately, across the country, buoyed in part by local regulations which are easing or even eliminating minimum parking requirements, massive parking lot installations at major retail locations are getting a fresh look – some may even call it an urban blight makeover, which is why many retailers are bidding adieu to the days of endless rows of empty spaces and hello to a more creative use of that precious land.

According to the Sightline Institute, a champion of sustainable development in the Pacific Northwest, retail giants like Walmart have long realized that many of their locations overbuilt their parking facilities and are leading the charge in reimagining how to utilize the land in novel ways.

Take the colossal Walmart in Wood Village, Oregon, for example. It’s been on a mission to downsize its parking lot since the early 2000s. Even after a 45 percent expansion of the store, the management team managed to reduce the number of spaces by 36 percent. In the past couple of years, the store has reduced its parking spaces by a third from 1,200 spaces to 800. With all the extra space, the store has converted part of the erstwhile parking area into a dry port for container storage.

But Walmart is not alone. Macy’s, financially struggling from a downturn in foot traffic, unveiled a plan in 2017 to sell off parcels of extra parking and direct that cash back into its online market. “The fact of the matter is we don’t need the massive parking lots that we needed in the 1970s,” Doug Sessler, the head of Macy’s real estate division told analysts during an industry meeting at the time. Lowe’s, for example, has also looked to lease the space out to complementary businesses like carwashes, fast food, and other services that will attract customers to the area.

Repurpose, Reposition

With that in mind, here are five ways many malls and Box Retailers are making use of or at least thinking about what to do with all those unnecessary parking spaces:

1. Complementary Retail.
Retailers have been leasing or selling land previously dedicated to parking spots to stand-alone complementary retail operators. Of course, the gas station at the opposite corner of the retail complex has been a staple of retail operations for some time, but increasingly, retail operators are becoming bolder and more imaginative in what to do with this land. Oftentimes Target has sold the unneeded land to a developer that can put in drive-through coffee or fast food. They have even turned it into a mini strip mall that gets customers into the vicinity and, hopefully, thinking about items they may need that are literally just a few yards away. And with Starbucks planning on opening 2,000 new stores over the next three years, we can expect to see a lot more of this trend.

2. Community Green Spaces.
The idea of turning part of an underutilized parking lot into, well, a good-old fashioned park is an idea that is catching on. Not only does it bring families into the vicinity and make that Costco or Kroger run much more appealing, but it also makes the entire area much more inviting. Recently, the San Diego City Council voted to turn the unsightly South Palisades parking lot into a pedestrian-friendly plaza area and green space.

3. Temporary Uses.
Picture this: a drive-in movie theater on the same parcel of land where you park your car. Many retailers, stadiums, and other venues with large parking lots that go mostly unused are connecting with their local communities by sponsoring pop-up, 1950s-style drive-in movies. For example, last summer, in York, Pennsylvania, the renowned Pullo Family Performing Arts Center decided to turn its pavement into an open-air venue for screening “Top Gun Maverick.” Using the space to host summer basketball leagues or concert venues is also becoming much more common, which has led to “Parking Lot Programming” positions at many large malls and retailers.

4. Expansion.
Of course, many retail operators have used idle parking areas to expand their businesses if the economics warrant such a move. The Mall of America in Bloomington, Minnesota, recently announced that it was building out a 320,000-square-foot water park, to be called “Mystery Cove.” Where Canadian Triple Five, the group that owns and operates the MOA, got the land was not a mystery at all: working with the city, it was able to reclaim seldom-used parking lots and an adjacent undeveloped parcel of land.

5. Return to Mother Nature.
In 2022, Nature, the esteemed scientific journal, published an urban sustainability paper entitled “Finding space for nature in cities: the considerable potential of redundant car parking.” It examined the multiple benefits of simply devolving idle parking areas back to nature. From addressing global warming and climate change to mitigating floods and improving overall community mental health, there is logic to creating more accessible nature preserves. The article argued that unused urban parking spaces might hold the key to improving urban quality of life indices in America’s inner cities. Accelerating these types of efforts seems to be in line with what Mother Nature is already signaling to us. Take for example the famous “Lake Chipotle” – a major body of water that appears during the spring snow melt in the parking lot of a Chipotle located in the East Isles neighborhood of Minneapolis. Locals, whose city is nicknamed “City of Lakes,” were quick to christen the slush pond-cum-parking lot with the name of the Tex-Mex fast-food purveyor that it serves. You have to openly wonder if Mother Nature just wants the land back so badly, maybe Chipotle should just indulge her.

Of course, almost all these decisions about what to do with idle parking spaces are based on economics. Fortunately, local governments and communities are increasingly open to partnering with retailers to envision how multiple stakeholders might come together to create the right mix of incentives and benefits to push along this transformation.

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Pop Goes the Retailer https://therobinreport.com/pop-goes-the-retailer/ Mon, 19 Jun 2023 09:00:54 +0000 https://therobinreport.com/?p=31738 ShoulbergW PoptailIf you look up the word “Pop-tailer” in the dictionary, you will find…well, actually you won’t find anything. It doesn’t exist…until now. That’s because we are christening the term as a new breed of retail that combines a fun shopping […]]]> ShoulbergW Poptail

If you look up the word “Pop-tailer” in the dictionary, you will find…well, actually you won’t find anything. It doesn’t exist…until now. That’s because we are christening the term as a new breed of retail that combines a fun shopping environment with a merchandise assortment that largely reflects “wants” rather than “needs” and throws in a touch of whimsy as extra flavoring. And it’s most certainly targeted a younger customer.

The pop-tailer is the latest idea to capture shoppers’ imagination in a number of emerging retail formats. The origins of pop-tailing do go back quite a few years; it didn’t just suddenly appear. Credit Dollar Tree and Five Below with latching onto this concept early on, but the recent surge of other retailers going after this space is explosive with companies like Popshelf, Miniso, and others. This is a real business.

Defining Pop

What is a Pop-tailer? They are stores that sell largely impulse items…although some do carry household essentials. They tend to be largely private label, although you will find some brands and even well-known licensed names. And they offer mostly home products with a large assortment of toys and games and novelty products…although some have apparel, commodities and even food.

What they all have in common is a model designed to appeal to the shopper – and it’s a young mostly Gen Z shopper for the most part who probably didn’t know what she wanted when she walked into the store…but walked out with two bags full of things she decided she simply couldn’t live without. Think of those check-out aisles with all those grab-and-go items and then multiply that by an entire store.

Who’s Who in Pop-tailing

 Let’s look at the players, old and new.

  • Dollar Tree: Many people group this retailer into the general dollar store category and while the name fits – and it does own the more traditional Family Dollar chain – Dollar Tree is really something else entirely. It doesn’t focus on consumables or household goods; instead, it targets seasonal goods, things for the holidays, and special events like weddings and a large assortment of toys and playthings. It has about 8,000 locations, and in a controversial move during the pandemic, it broke through its sacred $1 price ceiling to start carrying merchandise priced higher. Consumers don’t seem to have blinked much, and the store continues to test the limits of how high it can go. So far it doesn’t seem to have reached any barriers.
  • Five Below: As the name says, its merchandise is generally below $5, but it too has pushed that up, sometimes above $10. Its main emphasis is on kid’s products, with toys, games, and playthings a prime focus. But there are also plenty of things for the grown-ups in its nearly 1,400 locations. It also has a very aggressive expansion plan in the works, with up to 200 additional locations in the works for this year on its way to 3,000 stores in the next few years.
  • Popshelf: Dollar Tree competitor Dollar General clearly looked at its rival’s successful format and said it needed something in that space too. So, it started Popshelf in 2020, and it has already opened well over 100 locations with the parent company saying it will expand to 1,000 stores by the end of 2025. Popshelf does have the usual mix of impulse, seasonal, and kid’s merchandise but it also brings in more standard dollar store categories like food, household products, and other consumables. Prices are generally under $10 but will go above that from time to time.
  • Miniso: An import from China, this nameplate just opened what it calls its U.S. flagship right smack in the middle of New York City’s Times Square in May. An international chain, unlike most of its competitors, it operates more than 4,500 locations in more than 90 countries. It now has about 70 stores in the American market, generally along the East and West coasts. While its prices break through the $10 mark on occasion, mostly it keeps it under that level. Again, the assortment is heavily in kids and novelty products, but it also has health and beauty as well as fashion accessory merchandise.
  • Daiso: This chain is out of Japan, and it also plays on the international circuit with some 4,000 locations though the vast majority are in its home country. It now operates about 100 stores in the U.S., centered in California and where there are large Asian populations. It is more of a traditional dollar store format with consumables and household goods including kitchenware and toys, but it throws in a large amount of impulse merchandise just like its counterparts.

Ripple Effect

While you can make an argument to include some other retail brands  — maybe Primark in apparel or toy chains like Piq – these Pop-tailers are expanding and seem to have hit a retail nerve with shoppers looking for inexpensive, feel-good things. The concept of cheap-and-cheerful has been a foundation of retail since the early days, but it has taken on new relevance and scale with the emergence of these new players. Think there’s nothing new in retailing? You’ve failed this Pop Quiz.

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Will RH Translate into the British Market? https://therobinreport.com/will-rh-translate-into-the-british-market/ Wed, 14 Jun 2023 09:00:46 +0000 https://therobinreport.com/?p=31717 ShoulbergW RHEngland 1 1They love our movies, our music, and our Coca-Cola. They eat our McDonald’s, fly on our Boeing jets, wear our Levi’s 501s and, use our iPhones. But when it comes to our stores…well, the track record is decidedly more mixed. […]]]> ShoulbergW RHEngland 1 1

They love our movies, our music, and our Coca-Cola. They eat our McDonald’s, fly on our Boeing jets, wear our Levi’s 501s and, use our iPhones. But when it comes to our stores…well, the track record is decidedly more mixed.

As much as American culture and the businesses behind them have had enormous success around the rest of the world, it has been a decidedly different story for some U.S. retailers. For every company that succeeds in Europe or Asia, there are many more that sculk out in the middle of the night, their tails between their merchandising legs. Big-name U.S. retailing companies like Walmart, Home Depot, and Target have all flopped in at least some (if not all) of their international expansion attempts.

Which is why the opening this month of RH England, the upscale home furnishings chain’s first location outside of its U.S. home base has to be one of the most eagerly anticipated – not to mention most closely watched – retail developments of the year and perhaps the decade on the global scene.

And there are those out there who think that if anyone can break the pattern of failed retail exports, it is RH. Then again, perhaps no other retailer in the business invites more amazement and skepticism over its unorthodox moves under CEO Gary Friedman than RH. Since taking over more than two decades ago, he took a small failing store known for its hardware (let’s not forget its former name Restoration Hardware), cleaning products, and whimsical tchotchkes and transformed it into nothing less than America’s number one luxury furniture and home furnishings chain.

Gary, Gary, Gary

And now to the same choruses of “What’s Gary up to now?” – he is looking to replicate that success overseas. The new store, Anyo Park, about two hours outside of London in the Cotswolds, is the first of a planned series of locations in Europe – France, Germany, Italy, and Belgium. Then onto Australia where one has to think will be RH’s beachhead into the Asian market.

As anyone knows who has recently been to an RH store – excuse us, the company prefers to call them Galleries – in New York’s Meatpacking District, along Chicago’s Gold Coast, in Buckhead in Atlanta, and in most other major urban markets, these are impressive places…contemporary urban palaces. They range in size from 40,000-square-feet on up, have at least one restaurant, and every detail is impeccably designed, often housed in repurposed historic buildings.

So, is the case with RH England, located in a 17th-century castle on a 73-acre estate, complete with landscaped gardens, what the company says is the largest herd of white deer (anyone feel like counting?), a library with archival books and documents, a tea salon and, oh yes, a bunch of RH furniture and decorative accessories.

And that’s the thing: Anyone expecting an Anglicized version of the retailer’s signature merchandise or something scaled down to all those charming, quaint very British cottages will be disappointed. This new store…er, Gallery is full-tilt boogie RH. (Full disclosure, I have not seen the store in person yet, these observations are based on company pictures, press reports, and conversations with those who were there for the pre-opening party…itself a classic event worthy of RH lore.)

Retail Export Experts

Is RH’s venture the right way to approach opening a store outside your home market? You can essentially argue it both ways. On the one hand, England – and for that matter France, Italy, and elsewhere – doesn’t need another furniture store that looks and feels like the stores they already have…which this new RH most certainly does not. It’s the same strategy RH has used in the U.S., offering a discernibly different take on shopping for home furnishings. As much as Ethan Allen, Arhaus, or countless local independents target the same upscale shopper, it’s safe to say none of them look and feel like an RH.

Friedman is essentially assuming the customer for luxury home furnishings is no different around the world, just as customers are similar for other luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Prada, Porsche, or even Apple. That would be consistent with his approach to position RH on equal footing with luxury brands, even if its path to those heights began downscale with laundry detergent and doorknobs.

Exporting a brand successfully to the U.S. is not necessarily just a luxury thing. Ikea has been enormously successful around the world with essentially the same model, tweaked for some local variances like sheet sizes and colors but with the same basic furniture, oddball product names, and meatballs.

More recently, mass fast-fashion brands like Zara and H&M, Uniqlo, Mango and deep discount grocers like Aldi and Lidl have all had successes in the American market with pretty much their standard operating plans.

Failure Is an Option

But the flip side of this retail coin is less of a success story. How many American retailers have succeeded overseas? More bluntly, how many American companies have tried to export their footprint largely unaltered – and fallen flat on their collective retail faces?

Walmart might be the poster child for this. The biggest retailer in the world – and undoubtedly one of the best at what it does – has failed miserably in one country after another, from Germany to South America to Japan to most recently…wait for it, England. And after each, Walmart has essentially said the same thing: we didn’t adapt well enough to the local market and kept thinking consumers would come around to our way of shopping. Walmart has had some successes outside the U.S. – in Mexico and China – but it would be the first to say it’s been a long grind to make it work.

And this is not always a matter of geographical distance. Target’s colossal failure in nearby Canada is one of the case studies on how not to listen to your new customers and try to force your way into the market.

Which is not to say it hasn’t worked. American chains like Nike, Gap, Victoria’s Secret, and, of course, Apple have all had successes overseas with their American models largely exported. It’s just that it seems there have been as many failures as successes.

But we are not just talking about American companies failing when going overseas either. There’s a long list of British supermarket chains that have come into the U.S. market and done, for lack of a better way to put it, rather miserable jobs. The upscale Japanese department store, Takashima, had a classic failure years ago in New York and who can forget Benetton’s invasion of seemingly every mall in America?

RHUK?

So, what does this mean for RH; what are the common denominators that define both success and failure? Retailing, as anyone in the business will be the first to tell you, is not an exact science. In fact, some will say it’s not much of a science at all… but that’s a topic for another conversation on another day.

If you look at what retail has exported itself into other countries and not gotten lost in translation, there does seem to be one compelling element: that retailer brought something to its new home that shoppers couldn’t get before

It wasn’t just another discounter with low prices or an apparel store with nice tops. And that may be what RH will bring to England and all the other places it plans to travel to. Its unabashedly full-on retail concept is unlike anything anybody’s seen there…just as it was here. Some Brits will respond and like what they see. Others will not…just as they did here. But they can be sure they haven’t seen anything like it. Call it the RH Factor…and it bloody well might work.

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Securing America’s Killing Fields https://therobinreport.com/securing-americas-killing-fields/ Tue, 23 May 2023 17:00:53 +0000 https://therobinreport.com/?p=31568 Wierson KillingFieldsIt’s gotten to the point that reports about mass shootings are almost a weekly occurrence on the nightly newscasts. Seemingly, no public or even semi-public venue is off-limits nowadays when it comes to this uniquely American form of mass violence. […]]]> Wierson KillingFields

It’s gotten to the point that reports about mass shootings are almost a weekly occurrence on the nightly newscasts. Seemingly, no public or even semi-public venue is off-limits nowadays when it comes to this uniquely American form of mass violence. In fact, according to a recent Axios-Ipsos poll, gun violence is now Americans’ top public health concern, bigger than the opioid epidemic and cancer.

And it’s easy to see why.

Over the past couple of years, episodes of mass shootings resulting in four or more victims murdered by firearms, not including the shooter (the standard technical definition of a mass shooting as per the U.S. Congress) have erupted at churches, synagogues, schools, sports bars, nightclubs, grocery stores, and shopping malls to name just a few of the categories of public venues that have been targeted by mass murderers. In a recent four-day stretch alone from May 10 through May 14, 15 episodes of gun violence were recorded around the country in states from California to New Jersey, Louisiana to Indiana, and just about everywhere in between.

Retail at Risk

In the US, according to the Violence Project which keeps track of gun violence and mass murders, retail venues have been subject to a mass public shooting every decade over the past 60 years, although more than half of those incidents recorded have occurred in the last 15 years. Data from the Violence Project database show just how much more susceptible the retail industry has been to mass shootings than bars and restaurants, office complexes, schools, places of worship or government installations.

When it comes to retail locations, be they mom & pop stores, corner bodegas, department stores, shopping malls, or big box retail locations, the challenge for store operators has been balancing adequate security and a safe shopping experience with ease of access, the critical component in driving traffic and moving inventory. For large-footprint stores and malls where the entire idea is bringing lots of people together, the challenges are particularly vexing.

This tradeoff among competing interests – often dubbed in retail circles as the “Sales versus Security” conundrum – has presented a daunting set of challenges for industry executives. While malls and retail outlets were once synonymous with relaxed shopping and pleasurable visits, they are increasingly becoming known as America’s new killing fields, prime targets for those seeking to wage acts of violence with maximum impact.

On the Offense

What can be done to prevent or deter mass shooters from choosing retail locations as a place to unleash their violence? How can retail executives best position their physical stores so that customers feel free to enjoy the retail experience while not feeling unduly encumbered by layers and layers of security protocols, much like those found at airports and Federal buildings? The answers aren’t easy, and they often involve making conscientious tradeoffs between equally hard and distasteful alternatives.

While many brands are experimenting with a host of innovative solutions and implementing forward-thinking workarounds, others continue to struggle with this new reality that is sweeping across the retail landscape. No one has yet cracked the code as they all seek to find that ideal and delicate middle ground that balances store security with brand reputation, shopper experience, ease of access, and maximizing sales potential.

Retail industry groups have been leaning into this issue in a big way, attempting to pull their members along – many of whom recognize the emerging threat but bristle at the extra costs associated with hardening their stores. In its annual “Retail Security Survey” issued late last year, the National Retail Federation (NRF) found that “mass violence/active assailants” is a growing concern of nearly two-thirds of its members. The Retail Industry Leaders Association (RILA) has been active in promoting education around the issue and has actively encouraged its members to conduct regular active-shooter training exercises for staff. But while industry associations have been vocal about this issue, it’s at the management level of individual retail brands where the rubber meets the figurative road.

Secure and Safe

The Robin Report spoke off-the-record with several security officials experienced in securing large-footprint retail locations. These conversations were with security consultants that have worked with large venues including big box stores, as well as actual store managers, and all shared what types of new tactics and techniques are being deployed or experimented with as they all continue to grapple with America’s epidemic with mass shootings and its impact on retail.

Here is what they say is happening behind the scenes.

  1. Enhanced Presence of Visible Armed Security Personnel
    Most stores have moved to augment their physical security presence. And while the presence of additional armed security personnel can provide a modicum of reassurance to shoppers, most analysts agree that there is a limit and it is important that stores strike a balance that avoids creating an atmosphere akin to a high-security facility. Nonetheless, many stores feel that having a larger and more visibly armed security presence is a reasonable tradeoff that communicates to shoppers that any potential violence can be shut down rapidly.
  2. AI-Assisted Detection and Predictive Intervention Tech
    Additional security measures, such as advanced surveillance systems and access controls, are being discreetly integrated into retail spaces. AI-driven technologies are being installed to constantly scan store perimeters and alert security personnel ahead of time of any individuals approaching retail locations with visible weapons or satchels that could be potentially hiding longer guns. It’s an approach that is gaining traction as it allows for effective monitoring and response without overly intruding on the shopping experience.

    Other retailers have adopted or are in the early stages of experimenting with cutting-edge technologies to enhance security by using facial recognition that matches databases of known criminals with security protocols, alerting security personnel to their presence in real time. The limitation of these technologies, is of course, that many mass shooters are first-time offenders and unknown to the criminal justice system. And this is to say nothing of the myriad and likely thorny privacy issues that will become more acute as these technologies gain traction.

  3. Beefed Up Store Communications
    Many stores are posting more signage alerting would-be mass shooters that might be staking out a location ahead of time. The presence of more visible and behind-the-scenes monitoring and security can be effective. Traditionally these types of warning placards were meant to discourage would-be shoplifters, but now they have a far more ominous target audience: would-be mass killers.

    Transparent communication with shoppers about security measures is recommended by many retail security consultants as a low-friction way to reassure consumers, build trust, and foster a sense of shared community and responsibility. At the heart of these preventive initiatives are a host of new communications strategies aimed at tapping into the public’s sense of shared community and experience, encouraging shoppers to notify store personnel if they spot individuals acting strange or suspiciously. Providing clear information on security protocols and emergency initiatives can also help alleviate concerns while ensuring a safer shopping experience.

  4. Collaborative Partnerships
    To combat the rising tide of gun violence, retailers are also increasingly collaborating with local law enforcement agencies to enhance their security programs and training. Joint programs and information-sharing initiatives are enabling store security teams to engage in a coordinated response to potential threats with local police and sheriff departments. Regular communication channels with law enforcement professionals also facilitate the exchange of best practices and the implementation of up-to-date security protocols.

    By fostering stronger ties with local community policing, retailers hope to create a sense of enhanced collective responsibility for safety. Programs that promote dialogue, trust-building, and awareness can help identify potential threats and encourage community members to report suspicious behavior promptly.

  5. Empowering and Better Preparing Store Employees
    Retail executives are also more heavily investing in training for all store employees from career management professionals to seasonal staff, so that they are all better equipped to handle a mass shooting incident. These programs seek to provide comprehensive training on situational awareness and response procedures while also empowering employees to recognize and report suspicious behavior that might contribute to early intervention and prevention. Companies are also establishing clearer communication channels and systems to alert employees in case of emergencies.
  6. Innovation of Store Layout and Design
    In light of the increased potential of mass shootings, many retailers privately concede that they are rethinking store layouts to optimize visibility and minimize blind spots while facilitating ease of egress. Strategic placement of mirrors, transparent barriers, and unobtrusive security infrastructure can improve surveillance coverage while still maintaining an inviting atmosphere. Some store executives have even privately toyed with the idea of installing wall-mounted break-glass “firebox” styled mass shooting kits that would simultaneously sound a general alarm and provide easy access to equipment such as bullet-proof shields, first aid, and other useful items in the event of an active shooter incident.
  7. Armed Employees
    Although it’s quite controversial, some major retail brands are considering testing programs that would train selected store employees to be ready to confront an active shooter. These employees would not only receive firearms training and concealed carry certification but undergo comprehensive training to prepare them to be able to react appropriately and swiftly in the case of an active shooter incident.

Damned If You Do, Damned If You Don’t

Of course, no retail establishment wants to spend too much time publicly talking about its “best-in-class” active shooter prevention infrastructure. Private polling initiated by many retailers in recent years has consistently shown that shoppers are increasingly turned off by the idea that they may encounter an active shooter situation, and no amount of communication about safety information and “what if” scenarios will assuage them from their basic belief that if a store is actually talking about this issue, they feel they are in danger and might as well go elsewhere or shop online.

It’s a real problem for retailers that isn’t going away anytime soon.

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Nailed It https://therobinreport.com/nailed-it/ Wed, 26 Apr 2023 21:00:51 +0000 https://therobinreport.com/?p=31348 WoodD NailsThis one’s definitely for the “why hasn’t anyone done this yet?” files: After logging decades as arguably the top nail pro on the red carpet and runway circuit, and then launching a successful product line steeped in her healthy-ingredients POV, […]]]> WoodD Nails

This one’s definitely for the “why hasn’t anyone done this yet?” files: After logging decades as arguably the top nail pro on the red carpet and runway circuit, and then launching a successful product line steeped in her healthy-ingredients POV, Deborah Lippmann is letting the masses in on all her many tricks and tips.

In fact, the “Deborah Lippmann Complete Course to the Perfect Natural Manicure”, unveiled in March on the digital platform Thinkific, is so packed with info, purchasers may never set foot inside their corner nail joint again. And if that happens, it will fully align the overall trends in the professional nail market, which has been on a downward trajectory since the pandemic.

Professional Nail Market in Decline

According to a report by Statista, as of 2018, the total market size for beauty salons in the U.S. providing hair, skin, and nail services, was $53.6 billion. Of that figure, nails accounted for 15.9 percent and the annual spend on nail salon services was $8.36 billion.

While $8.36 billion sounds robust, it really isn’t when you consider that it’s only marginally better than the numbers in 2013, when pro nail services clocked-in at $8.28 billion. And when your parent category is in decline, as the hair and salon industry is – it’s lost 2.3 percent per year from 2018 to 2023, according to IBISWorld – it’s easy to see how the nail sector gets dragged down with it.

Conversely, guess what’s booming? Global nail polish sales, which hit $15.2 billion last year, according to analytics platform StyleSage. Sure, some of those polishes might be tossed in a handbag and taken to the salon, but I’m guessing that’s only fraction. Mostly, it’s used at home, possibly by the very people Lippmann is targeting with her manicure course.

“With the economy, the last recession and during Covid, many people cut their salon visits and did their nails at home,” says Lippmann. “It was out of necessity, but also to save money.”

Summoning Your Inner Nail Tech

When Lippmann tells me she channeled the at-home nail novice while creating her course, she isn’t kidding. Mapped-out in ten extremely in-depth video training modules (Lippmann calls them “chapters”), it includes everything from tools and best practices for polish removal to filing and buffing, cuticle care and application of base coats, color and topcoats. And that doesn’t include the many helpful add-ons, like PDFs on the history of nail shapes.

Shot entirely in Lippmann’s New York City apartment, the course is emblematic of the way this unassuming nail guru runs her business. Despite her own personal success – this is a woman who was discovered by Bobbi Brown, was summoned to Paris by an on-tour Mariah Carey and counts Oprah, Lady Gaga and Cher among her many fans – Lippmann’s business is still owned and operated by just herself, her husband and brother.

“I’m in all the videos,” Lippmann says. “We shot it right in our home, and the whole thing took just a few months to put together. It was a family affair — we filmed and my brother edited.”

An Innovative Bargain That Quickly Pays for Itself

As a bit of an online-learning junkie herself, Lippmann says she’s surprised she didn’t come up with the idea for her course even sooner. Still, she’s the first out of the gate with a direct-to-consumer education offering by a foremost expert in her category. This is the nails equivalent of, say, the late, great Kevyn Aucoin teaching us how to do our makeup, or a Bliss Spa-era Marcia Kilgore showing us the ins and outs of giving a killer facial.

And given that the average cost of a basic salon manicure in the U.S. is close to $23, with a $200 purchase price, Lippmann’s course will quickly pay for itself.

And that’s before the generous gift with purchase. Valued at more than $100, it includes a ton of Deborah Lippmann tools, nail care products, base, topcoat and two polishes. “It honestly was a no-brainer to me,” Lippmann says of her massive GWP. “I want my customers to have what they need while they’re taking the course.”

While Lippmann’s too modest to say that she thinks other beauty experts of her ilk will dive into the course-creation pond, I’m guessing it’s only matter of time before my inbox gets flooded with news of similar ventures. Especially when they hear that Lippmann projecting 1500 first-year course purchases, and she’s already had interest from beauty schools looking to license the program for their aspiring nail techs.

But for now, Lippmann is focused on helping all the people who eagerly scoop up her award-winning Gel Lab Pro Polish and The Cure Cuticle Repair Cream learn to take their nail care into their own hands.

“I wanted to give the person who was struggling with at-home manicures confidence,” Lippmann says. “So, I just thought of them. What do they need?” So simple, and yet so smart.

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