So much about American life has changed since the 1870s. For starters, 12 U.S. states had yet to be admitted to the Union back then. Horses provided the main mode of transportation. And forget about TV or the internet — the radio wasn’t even invented until decades later.

But one invention that came about 150 years ago is not only still with us, it’s as popular as ever: the blue jean.

An American Icon

It was May 20, 1873, that Levi Strauss and his partner Jacob Davis received the patent for workwear pants that had metal rivets at the points of strain, like the pocket corners and base of the button fly. Davis, a tailor, came up with the idea when the wife of a local laborer asked him to make a pair of pants for her husband that wouldn’t fall apart. The riveted pants were a success from the get-go but to grow his denim project, Davis needed a business partner. That’s where Strauss came in – he was Davis’ denim supplier.

The workwear bottoms were called waist overalls back then. Levi Strauss & Co. says they weren’t called jeans until 1960, when Baby Boomers adopted the name.

Since then, blue jeans have been worn by everyone from presidents and princesses, to rock stars,  rock climbers, toddlers, and teens. And there isn’t any sign of that abating. After a dip in sales from $16.6 billion to $12.8 billion during the Covid-19 pandemic, jeans sales have increased every year since, according to Euromonitor International. The firm projects the U.S. market will reach $20.7 billion by 2026.

Jeans Staple and Uniform

Of all the pants and bottoms they own, consumers say they have worn denim jeans the most (34 percent) in the past month, according to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor Survey, with men wearing them significantly more than women (40 percent versus 30 percent). That compares to sweatpants/joggers (23 percent), leggings/jeggings (17 percent), casual pants (15 percent), active pants (8 percent), and dress pants (2 percent).

It’s not just this past month that sees consumers regularly reaching for their jeans. The majority of shoppers say they’ve been wearing their denim the same number of days (56 percent) or more often (22 percent) over the last year, according to the Monitor research.

And since denim jeans are an important part of so many wardrobes, it should come as no surprise that the majority of consumers plan to purchase the same (62 percent) or more (20 percent) pairs of denim in the next year as they did in the previous 12 months, according to Monitor data.

Sustainability Goals

These days, denim is an even bigger wardrobe workhorse than it was a century-and-a-half ago. And perhaps that’s why the companies that produce it are looking to make it a more sustainable category. Historically, denim has had a reputation for being eco-unfriendly. But Miguel Sanchez, technology leader for Kingpins, the denim trade show and network, and textile engineer for the Polytechnic University of Catalonia, says there are different ways to produce it. “If you just follow simple rules and use your brain to do what is right, denim is not worse than any other fashion product,” Sanchez says.

To that end, Levi’s has released its sustainability goals for 2025 and beyond. The strategy is comprised of 16 people and planet-first goals “that illustrate our commitment to bettering the world we all share,” the company states. Its goals include a 40 percent absolute reduction in supply chain greenhouse gas emissions, reducing freshwater use in manufacturing by 50 percent in areas of high water stress, and eliminating single-use plastics in consumer-facing packaging by shifting to 100 percent reusable, recyclable, or home-compostable plastics by 2030.

Further, Levi’s biodiversity roadmap, developed in 2021, focuses on different levels of biodiversity and identifying the most significant impacts – including cotton cultivation, textile waste, and microplastics – so it can assess direction and steer its development goals.

Consumer Sentiment

This focus on sustainability is meaningful as nearly half of all consumers (46 percent) say environmental friendliness is an important feature when they’re weighing whether or not to buy a pair of denim jeans, according to the Monitor research. While shopping for denim, 45 percent of consumers actually look for sustainable messaging according to Cotton Council International (CCI) and Cotton Incorporated’s 2021 Global Denim Survey. Further, the importance of sustainability in denim jeans has increased for 20 percent of consumers.

When looking to make a more sustainable denim purchase, most consumers say the use of natural fibers (59 percent) is likely to impact their purchase decision, according to the CCI and Cotton Incorporated 2021 Denim Survey. That’s followed by workers’ rights/pay (57 percent), assuring jeans can be recycled (52 percent), recycling old jeans (51 percent), reducing chemicals in production (43 percent), and reducing water in production (42 percent).

Eco-Mentoring

Cotton Incorporated has provided jeans makers with a sustainable denim finishing chart that straightforwardly explains the differences between traditional and new technologies for stone washing, washdown effects, whisker effects, and sanding. Cotton Incorporated also has a webinar that explains each of these sustainable denim finishing techniques with clear explanations and detailed photos.

While Levi’s is an OG denim brand making strides on the sustainability front, it’s not the only brand to do so. In 2021, Good American achieved B Corporation status. Companies that reach this certification have proven they meet the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability. Good American uses cotton, organic cotton, and recycled cotton in its denim, as well as “eco-kind” washes and significantly less water usage. It also produces its product in solar-powered factories.

Lucky Brand is another denim maker that’s aiming for more eco-friendly production. The company created its Responsible Wash Program that “considers everything from water consumption to chemistry conservation, ensuring our products weigh as little on the earth and its people as possible.

“From LEED certification to using solar power, rainwater, and prioritizing worker wellbeing,” Lucky Brand states, “we partner with socially and environmentally conscious factories and mills for select styles.”

Why Jeans Are Ageless

While sustainable, eco-conscious production is a vital direction for modern denim manufacturing; it’s just one area that matters to consumers when purchasing new pieces. Shoppers rank comfort and fit (both 95 percent) as the topmost important features when purchasing denim jeans, according to the Monitor research. That’s followed by quality (92 percent), durability (88 percent), price (87 percent), color and style (both 84 percent), whether or not it has stretch (81 percent), versatility for different occasions (81 percent), softness (81 percent), made of cotton (67 percent), and brand (58 percent).

With comfort ranked so highly, makers should note that consumers say the most comfortable jeans are those made of 100 percent cotton (44 percent), according to the Monitor research. That’s followed by denim jeans made with a cotton/spandex blend (42 percent) then jeans made with a blend of cotton and synthetics like polyester, rayon, etc. (14 percent).

About 4 of 10 consumers (39 percent) also say denim jeans made of 100 percent cotton are the most fashionable, according to the Monitor research. That’s followed by denim made of cotton/spandex blends (36 percent) and those made with cotton and manmade fibers like polyester, etc. (25 percent).

Jeans as On-Trend Fashion Statements

And when it comes to what’s in fashion now, the styles run the gamut from Western to dramatically loose (think slouchy fits). Recent data from Trendalytics found searches for men’s baggy jeans were up 68 percent compared to last year. The firm expects the trend to continue to rise over the coming year. Interest in men’s flare jeans is also up from last year (+63 percent), with more than 118 products in the market. Trendalytics expects interest in men’s denim shorts to accelerate through spring and peak in July.

For women, Trendalytics sees TikTok’s coastal cowgirl aesthetic manifesting in long denim skirts (up +342 percent in online searches), white blouses, and cowboy boots. Byrdie, the online beauty and style platform, says the coastal cowgirl look can be expressed with distressed denim shorts or jeans. For example, long denim shorts can be paired with a trucker hat and work jacket – a look the site describes as “dressing for the barn.”

Aubrey Howard, a trend forecaster in the fashion marketing department at Cotton Incorporated, says the western denim look is a seasonless trend for all markets.

“It is the ultimate heritage look with statement pieces that have longevity,” Howard says, adding that the trend can be achieved through accents on denim – like fringe details, appliques, and embroideries – as well as through accessories that are paired with it, such as cowboy boots and hats, and western belts.

Another trend that’s coming back in vogue: Normcore. Edited reports that fears of a recession have brought back this unpretentious, average-looking mode of dressing.

“Straight-leg jeans are continuing to sell well, especially in women’s wear,” Edited reports. “However, this iteration of Normcore will be defined by baggy silhouettes, which outpaced straight fits by 27 percent.”

Consumers are definitely in that Normcore mindset, as they say, they are more likely to buy a pair of jeans that are a relaxed fit (15 percent), classic or regular fit (15 percent), straight fit (13 percent), bootcut (12 percent), skinny (11 percent) and baggy (5 percent), according to the Monitor data.

All of those choices are a far cry from the simple coverall made popular by Levi Strauss all those years ago. But, as the company points out, they’re still related.

“The next time you see someone wearing a pair of Levi’s jeans, remember that these pants are a direct descendant of that first pair made back in 1873,” Levi Strauss states. “That year, two visionary immigrants — Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis — turned denim, thread, and a little metal into what has become the most popular apparel on earth.”

It’s been 50 years since the Seal of Cotton trademark was introduced. That’s a lot of time filled with a lot of memories, many of them made while wearing cotton apparel. And that’s something Cotton Incorporated wants to celebrate while also reminding consumers to look for the cotton seal while shopping, as the clothes that bear the emblem hold the possibility of making even more great memories.

Living a Legacy

The new Cotton Incorporated ad campaign, named ”Memories are Made in Cotton,” recently launched on both television and digital platforms. It shows viewers, in particular Gen Z and millennials, how cotton clothes have been there through the years and is the common thread for all their best memories. It also reminds viewers to check clothing labels for cotton “and go make more” memories.

The Seal reflects the white cotton boll rising up from the two t’s of the word cotton and laid against a background of earth-tone brown. It sends several positive messages at once. If nature was good, then cotton was good. Cotton has roots, but also has bloom. Cotton is pure, soft, comforting and natural.

Brands and manufacturers can leverage the popularity of the Seal of Cotton in a range of marketing efforts, from packaging and point-of-sale to interactive digital experiences and more. Cotton Incorporated licenses interested companies to use the Seal of Cotton trademark on qualifying products. Those who use the seal are linked to Cotton Incorporated’s consumer promotion and advertising campaigns, which elicits millions of consumer impressions both on television and online. Of note: there are no fees or royalties involved – the only requirement is the use of cotton.

The Benefits of the Seal

This stands to be a meaningful licensing deal for apparel makers, as more than 8 in 10 consumers (82 percent) say the seal makes them feel they can rely on the product/brand associated with it, according to Cotton Incorporated’s 2023 Seal of Cotton Survey. Additionally, 81 percent of consumers say a brand using this logo is helping them make an informed buying decision. And 79 percent say brands using the seal make their buying decisions easier.

Something that stands out is the seal’s recognizability among consumers. Nearly 8 in 10 consumers (78 percent) have an awareness of the Seal of Cotton, according to Cotton Incorporated’s 2023 Seal of Cotton Consumer Research. That’s far more than other fibers.

Cotton Incorporated’s Kim Kitchings, senior vice president of consumer marketing, explains why the seal’s awareness is so high. “Consumers love cotton. They trust it,” Kitchings says. “They have an emotional connection with cotton that no other fiber can claim. In a 2022 Lifestyle Monitor Survey, consumers tell us that cotton and cotton blends are two- to three times more likely to represent key attributes in apparel than clothes made of polyester, poly blends, rayon, and rayon blends. And those attributes include comfort, quality, sustainability, breathability, doesn’t irritate the skin, is easy to care for and it’s hypoallergenic. It’s no wonder that consumers associate these attributes with cotton. From the moment we’re born, we’re wrapped in a cotton blanket. Then we’re living in denim jeans and T-shirts, sleeping in cotton sheets and drying off with cotton towels. We utilize hygiene products that contain cotton and even eat food that’s been made with cottonseed oil. Cotton is truly the fabric of our lives.”

The Back Story

The Seal of Cotton came about when Dukes Wooters, the first chairman of Cotton Incorporated, decided that in order to convert cotton from an agricultural commodity into a consumer brand, he needed a symbol, according to the book Cotton’s Renaissance, a Study in Market Innovation. Inspired by Susan Landor, who worked with her father and graphic designer Walter Landor of San Francisco, the Seal became one of the most successful trademarks in the history of marketing, write the book’s authors Timothy Curtis Jacobson and George David Smith.

“Unlike the wool mark, it was not a symbol but rather a picture and the word – ‘cotton,’” the pair write. “It needed no other caption. The white cotton boll, rising up from the two t’s of the word ‘cotton’ and laid against a background of earth-tone brown, sent several positive messages at once. If nature was good, then cotton was good. With the farmer’s help, cotton renewed itself year after year. Cotton had roots, but also had bloom. Cotton was pure, soft, comforting, and natural. Cotton was something familiar that you want to have and keep around.”

3Cs

Today, the Seal of Cotton brings to mind three Cs among consumers: clothing (48 percent), cotton (39 percent) and comfort (22 percent), according to the 2023 Seal of Cotton Consumer Research. Consumers say the seal best represents natural (90 percent), plant-based (88 percent), softness (87 percent), safe (85 percent), sustainable (82 percent), vintage (81 percent), trusted (81 percent), comfort (80 percent), authentic (80 percent), and reliable (77 percent).

Kitchings reiterates that consumers say the seal eases the consumer shopping experience, which is good for brands that bear the logo.

“It eases the shopper journey by quickly identifying the product and adding transparency to a brand that uses the seal to help their consumer make an informed decision,” Kitchings says. “So much so that 82 percent of consumers tell us they’d like to see more Seal of Cotton products at retail. That is a significant lift to any brand or retailer looking to help their product.

“We know that brands using the seal offer a point of distinction and it’s a powerful sales builder in our brand partnership programs with women’s and men’s apparel, children’s wear, and even home textiles,” Kitchings continues. “We’ve seen a double-digit return on investment when these brands are intentionally using the Seal of Cotton on curated cotton products, whether that’s in-store or online, and also when they have combined this with messaging about cotton. That could be fashion, benefit or sustainability messaging.”

Note: Cotton Incorporated is a Robin Report Collaborative Partner. Since its creation in 1973, the Seal of Cotton trademark has gained global recognition. Those who are interested in using the Seal on their products can write to cottonworks@cottoninc.com to learn more about the 50^th anniversary of the Seal of Cotton.

Amid ever more extreme weather events due to climate change, consumers are faced with how they can make a difference, especially when it comes to what they purchase — and that includes apparel.

The effort, though, varies among generations, with research showing millennials and, even more notably, Gen Z leading the charge toward a more sustainable future. With a combined population of 141 million, these two generations represent a strong force for change. Yet, they’re still looking to brands to help the sustainability cause and provide them with better clothing choices.

Lee has launched the For a World That Works program marking a company commitment that by 2025 Lee will power 100 percent of all owned and operated facilities with renewable energy, increase each year the use of Indigood-dyed products, which are dyed using 90 percent less water than conventional dyeing processes, utilize more than 50 percent sustainable fabrics and source 100 percent sustainably grown or recycled cotton.

Sustainability Conundrum

YPulse’s MaryLeigh Bliss, chief content officer, says when it comes to Gen Z, millennials, and sustainability, these generations live in somewhat of a conundrum. “On one hand, they care deeply about the environment and want to make a difference,” Bliss says in an interview with Lifestyle Monitor. “But on the other, the clothes and styles they can afford are most likely those fast fashion retailers that are most harmful to the environment. YPulse’s Cause Conundrum trend research shows that while they try​ to buy products that are environmentally friendly, 76 percent of young people agree: ‘I don’t make enough money to always shop my values.’ The majority do shop from fast fashion brands, even though 64 percent of fast fashion shoppers agree, ‘Shopping fast fashion is bad for the environment.’ We found small, day-to-day efforts are the aim of Gen Z and millennials. But when it comes to the large scale, they believe it’s corporations’ responsibility: 81 percent of young people agree ‘Corporations (e.g. companies, brands, etc.) should take more responsibility for fighting climate change.’

“Additionally, they’re not making purchasing decisions in a bubble,” Bliss says. “They’re not only thinking about the environment when they’re buying something. They’re also thinking about inflation and their own budgets. The majority tell us they wish they could buy eco-friendly products, but they can’t always afford them.”

Reading the Sustainability Tea Leaves

This represents a major opportunity for fashion brands and retailers. Consider three-quarters (75 percent) of all consumers say concern for environmental change is real and requires change, according to Cotton Council International (CCI) & Cotton Incorporated’s 2021 Global Sustainability Survey. Millennials (77 percent), Gen X (76 percent), and Gen Z (74 percent) are significantly more likely than boomers (69 percent) to feel this way. Taking it further, millennials (65 percent) and Gen Z (62 percent) are significantly more likely than Gen X ( 54 percent) and boomers (50 percent) to say sustainability and environmental concerns influence their clothing purchases.

Nearly three-fourths (72 percent) of Gen Z shoppers say it is important to them to do whatever they can to improve the environment, according to the 2021 Global Sustainability Survey. And 74 percent of Gen Z consumers say it is important that apparel products can return to the earth by being biodegradable/compostable. That compares to 63 percent of millennials, 62 percent of Gen X, and 56 percent of Boomers.

Gen Z Leading Change

Lee Jeans’ Charlie Alex, public relations coordinator, says it makes sense that Gen Z would be leading the charge when it comes to pulling companies into a sustainable future. “Whether they want to or not, I think that’s where we’re lucky with Gen Z,” Alex says in an interview with Lifestyle Monitor. “They have led the way for body positivity. They’ve led the way for gender neutral clothes. They’ve led the way for wearing something with confidence, whether it’s trendy or not. So, when it comes to sustainability, whether they want to or not, they kind of have to lead the way because they’re the ones that are going to be dealing with the climate crisis. They are not waking up and asking themselves, ‘Do I care about the climate or not? Do I care about sustainability or not?’ It’s just in what they do. And that’s partly why I think vintage and recycling is so important to them.”

The company has launched Lee Archives on its website, which offers periodic drops of true vintage, pre-owned pieces. Each item goes through a quality check and is cleaned before it is put up for “re-sale.” The vintage page promotes the Vintage Lee pieces “are more than stylish, they’re sustainable” and choosing a piece will both keep apparel out of landfills and give vintage clothing new life.

Second Hand Rose

More than 1 in 4 consumers (26 percent) say they plan to buy more used/secondhand clothing in the future, according to the Cotton Incorporated 2022 Covid Survey (Wave 14) and Inflation & Supply Chain Survey (Wave 4) – U.S.

This also bears out in YPulse’s research that shows Gen Z and millennials are helping to fuel the popularity of secondhand marketplaces. “Thrift stores are in their top 10 ranking of favorite places to buy clothes, alongside those fast fashion behemoths,” Bliss says. “Secondhand shopping is also a top fashion trend they’re interested in, among both generations. This more sustainable shopping is a part of their behavior as well, and often motivated by their desire to buy sustainably when they can. YPulse’s research shows the majority (56 percent) would prefer to shop from a ‘slow fashion’ brand than a fast fashion brand — they just don’t always have the means.”

Lee Jeans Commitment

In another sustainability effort, Lee has also launched its For a World That Works program. It marks a company commitment that by 2025 Lee will power 100 percent of all owned and operated facilities with renewable energy, increase each year the use of Indigood-dyed products, which are dyed using 90 percent less water than conventional dyeing processes, utilize more than 50 percent sustainable fabrics and source 100 percent sustainably grown or recycled cotton.

Consumers overwhelmingly (87 percent) consider cotton/recycled cotton/organic cotton to be safe for the environment, according to the Global Sustainability Survey. That compares to recycled polyester (61 percent), Tencel (45 percent), rayon (42 percent), and nylon and polyester (both 39 percent). Brands should be aware that nearly two-thirds of Gen Z and Millennial consumers (64 percent) check labels, online descriptions or hangtags about the sustainability/environmental friendliness of a clothing item.

Living With Climate Change

Bliss says YPulse gets a lot of questions from brands who struggle to understand data that show young consumers have concerns about sustainability and climate change, yet they’re still buying fast fashion. “For two generations who have experienced two enormous economic downturns as well as a pandemic in their young lives, budget is going to trump nearly everything else when it comes to the products that they buy,” Bliss explains. “However, our 2023 sustainability report found that their climate change anxiety and concern is as strong as ever. Most Gen Z and millennial consumers (66 percent) worry about climate change on a monthly or even daily basis, and the majority (75 percent) agree that climate change is an immediate threat to human life.

“They’ve grown up watching the impacts of climate change in real time,” Bliss says. “Nearly a third tell us that their life has already been impacted by climate change, and 77 percent of young people agree, ‘It’s up to my generation to stop climate change from getting worse.‘ They are paying attention to what brands are doing and it continues to be really important for brands to make changes. Because they will be called out by these generations.“