Sizing and fit are top concerns for consumers shopping apparel. According to Shapeometry, in 2019 the apparel returns related to fit hit $60 billion, half of which were returns of online purchases. About 85 percent of apparel returns were due to fit issues. So, the premise of a digital personal avatar sounds great for shoppers, but the reality is that the supply chain cannot deliver to specific avatar sizes. Instead, brands match a personal avatar size to the closest size in the existing product range. Jason Wang, COO of Alvanon explains, \”Retailers have been investing in technologies that allow for customized personal avatars, where the consumer can create a body model of themselves. Using algorithms, the retailer can then match the statistical body model to the closest fitting size in the product line.\”

As technologies on the front consumer-facing side have become for more mature and accurate in terms of body size identification and fit recommendations, the supply chain lags behind in delivering these custom size products to individual consumers.

The mass-market brands are just starting to get more invested in strategies that better match body form to produce styles that meet the target market. Wang suggests that the consistency for garments to match body form could streamline the supply chain and create better efficiencies which in turn would limit the over-production of goods that lead to products being shipped to discounters or end up in landfills.

Why Virtual Fittings?

The retail community is excited about the many uses of artificial intelligence to help solve the problem of trying on apparel, especially now during the coronavirus pandemic where stores are either closed or have modified fitting room procedures. Virtual try-ons provide shoppers with higher confidence in apparel selection and a better chance of making a purchase. Trying on apparel can increase the chance of purchasing by 40 percent and reduce high return rates normally seen by apparel retailers, which vary by business segment but average between 20-40 percent.

In the current Covid-19 environment, apparel returns present massive logistics headaches for physical stores. Many retailers have set up a 24-48-hour moratorium on putting returns back into inventory or use an expensive cleaning process, all of which results in a slower turnover of merchandise and out-of-stocks leading to shrinking margins.

Clear Expectations

While virtual try-ons can reduce many customer pain points, they also may present a service gap between what the customer expects and what the retailer can actually deliver. Virtual try-on apps are used throughout the industry and some technologies promise 3D body scans to create the \”perfect fit.\” Many shoppers are under the impression that virtual try-ons provide products that match their exact body specifications, but this is not true. The technology actually finds the best size match within the brand\’s existing product assortment.

Furthermore, once customers understand they may be giving up their personal data about their sizes, it may become a privacy issue for some customers who would prefer not to reveal this type of personal information with the digital world. While the apps are great to identify which sizes and styles may fit best for individual consumers, retailers that set the customer expectation about the technology\’s limitations upfront will minimize the service gap. In addition, clear use of data collected by apps should be clarified with the shoppers using the app.

Retail Applications

In addition to virtual body scans, AI technologies allow shoppers to use an image of themselves to try on products virtually. Beauty brands, like Sephora and Ulta, have been successful using this type of technology to enhance the customer experience even before the pandemic. Mirrors and apps allow shoppers to try on different shades of make-up on virtual images of themselves. Apparel is more complex with sizing, proportion and design characteristics that impact wearability.

There is also an option for virtual try-on services with minimal software investment using two-dimensional imaging that is relatively easy to integrate into existing platforms. The 2D process uploads product images along with metadata information like garment characteristics, drapability and sizing specifications. A shopper can then upload an image of themselves and try the products on his or her virtual image.

Three-Year Lag in the Supply Chain

Performance wear companies are more advanced than the fashion apparel industry in terms of matching body image to manufactured styles, but these companies heavily invested in this technology prior to Covid-19. Wang adds, \”As technologies on the front consumer-facing side have become for more mature and accurate in terms of body size identification and fit recommendations, the supply chain lags behind in delivering these custom size products to individual consumers.\”

Prior to Covid-19, Wang estimates that the supply chain side of the industry was probably five years away from delivering product sizing to match up with the virtual try-on technologies. However, like many other technologies in today\’s environment, the acceleration of this puts the supply chain behind about three years.

Wang notes, \”The inherent issues with the comparison between the actual body scan to a technical specification is that design tolerances are not taken into account.\” In apparel production, the development process provides certain tolerances to the initial design which may include fabric ease, sewing, shrinking and design intent. This will lead to produced garments not matching the exact actual body size.

Alvanon (full disclosure, Alvanon is a partner of The Robin Report) is a leader in industry innovation and uses cutting-edge technology and body shape data to advise global brands and retailers on the best-fit strategies for its customers promising to reduce apparel returns by 30 percent.

Back to the Future

Virtual try-ons and apps serve a current need in the industry as shoppers continue to be apprehensive about shopping in stores. Online returns, for apparel, continue to challenge retailers. Selling right sized products to shoppers is a cost-effective solution. Some retailers look for ways to improve the processing of returns while others are facing the crux of the problem by focusing on creating better body forms that match a brand\’s target market.

Managing shopper expectations about sizing applications includes full disclosure about technology limitations and privacy information. Transparency about the benefits and potential drawbacks about the technology will make a more successful adoption with shoppers and create deeper loyalty. On the product development side, improving the body forms and minimizing tolerance levels to more accurately portray body measurements of the specific target market will also drive higher levels of customer loyalty.

For sure, retailers and brands should not mislead shoppers into believing virtual apps or 3D scanning technologies deliver custom products — unless they are actually able to produce customized products based on individual sizing dimensions. Custom apparel is where the industry started centuries ago and may be where the industry is headed in the future, but it is not there now.

In addition to social and economic pressures, corporate social responsibility will be further shaped by the acceleration of technology in our lives and the workplace. The advent of technology has caused growth spurts throughout history. In the 1850s, we saw the age of mechanization (the Industrial Revolution), fueled by water and steam; followed by mass production automation (electric power); then computerization and automation. Now in what is called the 4th Industrial Revolution, we face the era of cyber physical systems and robotics. What does that mean for the modern-day workforce?

It\’s probable we will see huge disruption not just on industries but on its people, with significant shifts in labor markets, practices and working conditions. A robot coming after your job isn\’t a new fear; it was reported by the Parade Magazine as early as September 1959 with the attention-grabbing headline \”Will robots make people obsolete?\” Not surprisingly, robotics emerged in the textile sector as early as the 1790s, particularly in operations requiring high levels of precision such as spinning. In short, we have had 200 years of worrying about the threat of machines taking over our jobs!

In that context, here are a few new headlines to digest:

• \”Nearly 400 Million Workers Globally Will Need New Jobs by 2030 (McKinsey Global Institute, 2017).\”
• \”Certain Jobs Are More Likely to Disappear Due to Automation – Production & Administration\” (World Economic Forum, 2018).
• \”50,000 People Set to Retire in the Luxury Market in the Next Few Years,\” Stefania Lazzaroni Managing Director of Italian Luxury Goods Association, Altagamma
• \”The Five Key Skills Expected to be Required in the Industry 4.0 Are: Digital Skills; Programming skills for Robots and Automation; Working with Tools and Techniques; Technology & Computer Skills; and Critical Thinking\” (Stolzoff, 2018).

Skillset Pivot

The fact is, our labor force is being challenged, and with a rapidly retiring skillset and no pipeline skills or experience plus a fear of what tomorrow\’s jobs will look like, the future feels uncertain.

The average shelf life of skills today is five years, making workplace training for business and individuals alike essential. For example, how many pattern makers have coding skills? This is just one example of the new blended skills which will be required as we approach Industry 4.0, ruled by automation and artificial intelligence.

The negative perception of a manufacturing career will be reversed as new career paths emerge for individuals with strong cognitive skills, grounded in mathematics and science. In apparel factories we are already witnessing the presence of cobots or collaborative robots that work alongside humans. The market for cobots is expected to worth about $9b by 2025 according to research conducted by market research company Research and Markets. Alongside the challenges of new technology, we are also faced with failing to leverage the skills of a retiring workforce; the craft of our industry must be preserved as a foundation for innovation. Jonathan Anderson, fashion designer and creative director of Loewe recently railed against the \”non-reality\” of digital technology, reminding us of the beauty of handcrafted objects (Morby, 2018).

Is the Apparel Workforce Fit for a New Purpose?

For apparel businesses, the accelerating pace of change has been all-consuming – from competing with fast fashion, to facing pressure as retailers close brick-and-mortar stores — the focus has been firmly on the short-term strategies that will keep businesses thriving. As the industry embarks on the next industrial revolution (digitization), apparel businesses need to ensure that their workforces have the necessary technical skills in order to remain relevant and fit for the future, particularly as the current workforce ages.

The imperatives for businesses now include figuring out how to engage employees and provide professional development, or risk losing them. As the war for talent continues, apparel businesses must make more of an effort to attract people back into roles that may have been perceived as unglamorous.

There is now an opportunity for the apparel industry to rethink their supply chain talent and skills.

Businesses can get ahead by rejuvenating traditional roles and ways of doing things, while also rethinking employee talent and HR management.

Key headlines from Alvanon\’s 2018 \”State of Skills in the Apparel Industry\” report included:

• Respondents indicated a key area for training was technical/product development skills.
• Barriers: 54 percent of respondents indicated time pressure as the biggest inhibitor for training, followed by relevant training not available and tight budgets (so cost-effective solutions required).
• Only 42 percent of managers and 34 percent of non-managers were satisfied with current training.
• 73 percent of business leaders said that employee learning and skills development was a key business issue.
• Across the board, executives globally ranked \”reinventing careers and learning\” as the second most critical business issue behind going digital, with 83 percent saying it was urgent (Deloitte, 2017).

Fashion Industry\’s War for Talent Demands Vocational Skills

What came across loud and clear in the study was the real need for relevant, cost-effective training, with 70 percent of global organizations indicating that employees haven\’t got the right skills.

Angie Lau, CEO of intimates factory Clover Group, said: \”There is a huge gap between what our employees learn in school and what real life is like in the factory.\” Created by parent company Alvanon, MOTIF was launched in October 2018, to bridge this gap and give access to training, professional development and mentorship from the industry\’s leading practitioners. Education has long been part of the DNA of Alvanon. The MOTIF platform encourages and enables industry-wide education in technical and vocational skills. MOTIF online courses are presented by apparel experts with the most in-demand skills and are positioned as complementary to initial education, bringing work-based learning which is relevant to the industry challenges today.

As an apparel knowledge hub, MOTIF connects apparel professionals around the world with the skills and industry expertise that can transform their businesses, lives and careers. The fashion industry has been built on centuries of craftsmanship passed from one generation to another in some form of apprenticeship.

The approach taken by MOTIF.org is to develop courses that are relevant to the industry today based on re-training the fundamentals (craft), shaped by new trends, technology and methodologies.

Today these age-old techniques combine with the most advanced technologies. The fashion world needs innovation, technical intelligence, and practical skills to tackle the challenges of the future and counter the global race for talent. MOTIF\’s vision is for professionals at every stage of the value chain to be able to develop themselves continuously, anywhere, anytime.

The courses are suited to both newcomers to the industry and people in the sector who are looking to up-skill — and are easily accessible at any time across all devices. The step-by-step online courses take learners on an engaging journey, with interactive learning tools and multimedia course materials, including video and animation; punctuated by assessment, which is required for successful completion of specific modules. MOTIF recognizes the modern learner is not only more mobile, tech-savvy and collaborative but also time pressured, the courses are therefore between three-six hours in duration depending on the content.

The 2018 \”State of Skills in the Apparel Industry\” report indicates the most important area to address is technical/product development skills. Hence, some of the current courses include: Mechanics of Fit, a protocol for best practice fit process in business, Apparel Costing, an in-depth look at the key factors which impact price and Sustainability in Fashion, an introduction to the topic.

This article appeared first in When Caring for People and the Planet Means Profit, an in-depth sustainability report on the global apparel industry, published by Alvanon. To learn more and download a copy of the report, click here.

It\’s denim season again and we are anticipating what\’s next. How will trends in eco-responsible production and gender adaptability in styling and innovations deliver true consumer personalisation? What will be the big new denim story? More importantly, is the skinny jean dead yet?

Whether it\’s the re-invented five pocket jean with wide or tapered leg shaping or a chino style sitting high at the waist, one thing remains constant: consumers demand a perfect fit, irrespective of design trends. As an industry, how can we best deliver fashion, newness and also democratize fit?

Here are the facts: 42 percent of consumers worry about getting something that fits well, with denim (alongside lingerie) named as they key category. And 85 percent of consumers stay loyal to a brand because their products fit them, according to Ed Gibbon in Edited.

A study from CBI in the Netherlands (2014) reported that for jeans brands to differentiate in an increasingly competitive market, they must offer:

• Excellent fit
• The latest in washing and coatings
• Newest fabric compositions: warp weft broken twills, space denim, etc. and
• Focus on a specific high-potential target group

In an industry where body shape is often misrepresented, Alvanon\’s philosophy is based on creating 3D virtual bodies and fit mannequins that are true to the natural human body. Applying the latest technology and body shape data, Alvanon advises the world\’s leading denim brands and retailers on fit and sizing strategies. So how do you build a fit & sizing strategy to ensure competitive edge and consumer loyalty?

Here are five top tips for the season on how to execute consistent fit:

1. Define your target customers and their body shapes.

Who are you selling to, or want to sell to? Start with the demographic of your core customer – where they live, age, ethnic and socioeconomic group. This important data will help to segment the customer profile and in turn will drive out a body shape standard.

For example; 55 percent of women in Europe have what we describe as an \”average\” body shape in that their bust to waist to hip measurements are well proportioned. These lucky people can wear almost any style and look good. However, what about the rest of the population? A further 30 percent of women have a \”straight\” body shape (having little waist shaping), while the remaining 15 percent are curvy. We should listen to the voice of our customers, as they claim 52 percent of brands still don\’t make clothes for real bodies or people.

Regardless of body shape women generally cite the following factors as most desired:

• It\’s all about the bum
• No excess fabric
• Back pockets must accentuate fit
• No gaping at the waist (mostly an issue experienced by curvy girls)

For men, it\’s much simpler. Their shape is determined by their top to bottom shaping. They are they bigger on the top or on the bottom. The good news is that this doesn\’t change significantly with age. The thing that impacts body shape in men is size.

2. Understand which sizes sell.

When considering new shapes and silhouettes, imagine it on your most popular selling size: this is your true customer. Having a graded 3D virtual body or fit mannequin will help focus on this filter and ensure fit integrity is maintained across the entire size range. Be ruthless and don\’t offer all styles in all sizes, sometimes it just doesn\’t work! With jeans sitting on the natural waist this season, it\’s important to remember that proportionally the waist grows more than the hips or bottom; this will be key to getting the fit right.
It is difficult to talk about standard sizing for jeans as it differs from brand to brand. The key to success is maintaining consistency for your consumer; work to standard measurements as guide rules and understand what \”loose, straight, slim and skinny\” means for your brand in terms of core measurements and sizing. This approach drives sales and minimizes returns.

To illustrate the size of the challenge, here are some statistics reported by FitsMe in their Size Disparity Whitepaper: (One Poll UK)

• More than 60 percent of consumers find it a gamble as to whether the item will fit when shopping online
• Seven out of ten women buy different clothing sizes from the same retailer
• Half of the men buy different clothing sizes from the same retailer

Whether you sell your jeans by waist and inseam or by numeric garment size, communicating sizing to the consumer in a way that is informative, concise and engaging, is crucial. The customer must be able to choose the right size with ease.

It is a well-known fact that actual garment measurements can be different from what\’s on the label! Sorry gents, while you boast that you still fit into a 34\” waist remember that there can be up to 1.5\” of ease depending on where the jean sits on the body and brand sizing.

Remember to put yourself in the shoes of the customer, who in addition to thinking about what style to buy this season, is having to navigate a purchasing journey which involves options of fabric, wash, size, rise and inside leg every time they buy a pair of jeans; it\’s a minefield!

No apologies for repeating this statistic but this is why 85 percent of customers stay loyal to a brand which offers an appropriate and consistent fit. Indeed, it\’s deemed as the #1 reason they go back to a brand.

3. Know your fabrics.

The focus on more sustainable materials and denim manufacturing processes continues to pick up pace this season, with recycled, recyclable or low-impact materials as key ingredients. Product functionality and durability ensures fabrics are designed to last and keep their look and color longer, a blessing if you have found your perfect jeans. With so much choice it can be difficult to select the right fabric; get it wrong and the impact on fit is disastrous.

The key from a fit consistency angle is to categorize fabrics based on weight and modulus (stretch properties — rigid, comfort stretch, super stretch). Other factors are aesthetic and will alter the look of the garment but will not directly impact the fit. Always fit your garments in the correct wash, there can be a big difference in fit between a rinse, classic stone wash or vintage washed garment.

4. Maintain consistent measurements and pattern blocks.

Consistency is key to keeping your customers loyal season after season. Trends may change but the basic body measurements and core shape standards should remain largely the same. An existing block can be adapted to incorporate seasonal trends with the body fit remaining constant in terms of shaping through the rise and crotch. This way you avoid reinventing the wheel each season, the consumer has consistency and your ability to get the new style to market faster is increased. Focus on style and adapting rise position and leg shape. If it\’s not broken don\’t change it!

To support brands in achieving great body fit, Alvanon has just launched a new men\’s mannequin specifically for fitting denim. The mannequin has been designed to reflect the way men stand for better read of balance and rise angles, it has a deeper indent at the back rise, so fabric doesn\’t\” bunch up\” or fold in at the seat.

5. Love the winners.

Never forget your best sellers. Update in-line with trends but maintain the core shapes that your customer returns to each season.

Skinny Jeans still represent 58 percent of women\’s jeans. If you\’re a denim retailer, skinnies are your core. What is exciting is the movement elsewhere, with cropped, coulotte, and wider styles all gaining in terms of popularity.

All things considered, it\’s quite easy to offer newness and consistency of fit if you keep the customer front and center of all your decisions. This is the core of Alvanon\’s ethos – create 3D virtual bodies and fit mannequins, that are true to the natural human body. We exist to help denim brands and retailers build effective fit and sizing strategies.

REFERENCES

https://fits.me/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Whitepaper-5-reasons-why-size-isnt-fit.pdf